Bagus Surf

Maile with the boys

Jumped in Mark's troop transport vehicle this morning and headed out to Maile point.  Rob, Brian, Mark, and Paul ready to hit it.  We decided to not drive around like we normally do and just jump in right away.  It was super low tide with a side shore/offshore breeze.  Nice size sets rolling in once in a while... actually got better as the morning went on.  I had a couple nice rights and lefts off the peak, even with the crazy moving water and boils.. hard to paddle in with the winds accelerating up the wave face.  I got tired pretty quickly from no water time the past month, but still managed a good hour or so before getting caught inside on a couple emptied the tank.  So tired I managed to paddle in over the reef, scraped up my fins, back and a small ding on the board.. sheesh.  Anyways. good to get wet and there were for sure a couple OH sets rolling through with the boys on it.

South swell cranking

Town's cranking with this south swell rolling through.  Trades are also howling with a super high tide around sunset.  Didn't get out today as I made a tactical error going to the eye docter this morning.. they dialated my eyes so I have not been able to go outside most of the day. Bummer.  I also have wayyy too much work.  Mark called and said Panics was fun.  Fannie gave me the report that inside queens were barrels.  Stuff's happening all over the place.  Maybe a sunset surf on the hight tide?













Technorati Tags: waves, oahu, hawaii, surf, surfing

DH was nice!

Hampig went out for a run tonight and reported that DH was looking really nice with little wind and a pulse rolling through.  I got home too late from work to get out there, but hopefully will try to get out tomorrow afternoon, probably with a million other weekend warriors also.  The morning high tide is just messing things up too much.  I also want to introduce everyone to a new family member, soon to be on the way.  Little Malibu Foil should arrive from Cooperfish in good shape we hope.  Delivery date is expected to be sometime end of the month.  We are very proud.

Surf's coming!

Didn't get out this morning due to work and such, but I am saving up for later in the week and into this weekend.  I just picked this report up from Jutecast.com

Wednesday new southerly swell from two directions with surf building into the solid 3ft range.

Thursday south swell in the 2-3ft range with 4ft bombs at select spots.

Friday south swell dropping slightly.

Saturday southerly swell picking up again with surf in the 2-3ft range with 4ft sets.

Sunday solid 2-4ft surf at the choice locations.

5-DAY OUTLOOK

surf is on the way for southern shores after a month long hiatus that seemed much longer. the south pacific has been exceptionally active over the last week or so. the first in a series of at least three swells arrived over the weekend to the hords of new people that have decided that surfing is their thing. the next swell in the trilogy currently just finished production in the deep southwest pacific. a massive storm formed just southwest of new zealand and moved west to east from the tasman past new zealand into the south pacific southeast of new zealand. as it moved along its course it generated swell all the way from the tasman sea across to the south pacific. maximum seas were deveoped just south of new zealand with open ocean heights reaching 36ft. during its life in the tasman sea the storm sent a swell in the direction of hawaii. as the swell was moving through the tasman sea an eddie pinched off from the mother system and winds blew over the already developed seas adding significant energy to the swell. for hawaii this is good news as the surf will have to negotiate many islands. once the system passed new zealand it intensified and maximum strength was reached with surf generated and aimed primarily at mexico. because the seas reached such large swell heights and wave energy was able to reach extreme periods of 18sec or more, the loss of energy form angular dispersion will be minimized. this is good news for hawaii as these waves will make it to our shorelines with some punch left to them.

look for surf to start arriving locally on wednesday afternoon with surf building into the 2-3ft range with larger sets popping up form nowhere. as mentioned the swell will arrive from two directions as new zealand cut off the supply of surf for a short time. surf will arrive from 210deg as well as 200-205deg. surf arriving from the tasman sea episode will be difficult to guage as there are many islands blocking the way so i'll give moderate surf estimates from this source while the surf generated after passing new zealand should be significantly larger as there was little blockage and the waves were generally larger. by thursday the swell should fill in with surf in the 2-4ft range with 5ft bombs possible.

currently as of this writing there is a swell being generated just south of tahiti that may arrive simultaneously with the swell mentioned above. the source 800nm south-southeast of tahiti. surf may arrive out 165deg on thusday with sets in the 3ft range.

looking ahead there is another possible source of surf for hawaii south-southest of new zealand. this swell would likely arrive somewhere around next wednesday next week. northern shores looking dormant for the forecast period.

Picture Day!

Ok.. not much to report on surf, except that winter is coming not soon enough.  Here are some pics to keep you occupied.

Hot Hot Hot

Checked out Bowls a little before 6 a.m. and I can already tell it is going to be a HOT day.  Not a cloud in the sky and super small waves lapping on the reef.  Looks much like a huge lake.  Needless to say, it is going to be another beautiful day in paradise.  So what is life all about?  Here's one way to look at it.

Life is an opportunity, benefit from it.
Life is beauty, admire it.
Life is bliss, taste it.
Life is a dream, realize it.
Life is a challenge, meet it.
Life is a duty, complete it.
Life is a game, play it.
Life is a promise, fulfill it.
Life is sorrow, overcome it.
Life is a song, sing it.
Life is a struggle, accept it.
Life is a tragedy, confront it.
Life is an adventure, dare it.
Life is luck, make it.
Life is too precious, do not destroy it.
Life is life, fight for it.

Mother Teresa

Short week, surf?

Got back in town Sunday with a nasty infection I picked up in Mexico a couple of months ago.  Ended up in the hospital Monday with a 104 degree fever.  Not fun at all... all hooked up to IVs and heavy doses of antibiotics.  Should be about a week before the blood tests come back and two weeks of Cipro.  Probably no surf this week, until the S swell fills in Friday.  Hope you all had a wonderful 4th.

The Wait

Been working like a dog everyday this week waiting for that swell to arrive Friday.  I hope it's not like the last swell when nothing seemed to appear while all the news blasted that we had a high surf advisory.  Not much to report except it is windy again here at my house and I imagine that DH is blown out.

could'a should'a

Drove out at 6 this morning looking for a quick surf before work responsibilities kicked in.  Low tide.  DH was looking sort of wobbly, so was lighthouse. Headed down to publics.. nadda.  What happened to the swell?  Heard that Bowl's/Ala Moana area is picking up the swell a bit more.  Nothing to complain about.. there's surf out there.  Just a bit deflated from the high surf predictions.  Decided to head home to start the day.. I'll throw the egg in the car in case I see surf later today.
Craig Fineman

Someday I gotta go check these breaks out

Winds down, surf small

Winds are down this a.m. around DH but the swell is small.  I am gonna work and crank it so I can get out for the next swell arriving later this week.  Another beautiful day in paradise.. sure to be hot with clear sunny skies.  Tides are ripe for a morning/mid day session.