Bagus Surf

Terje Rips

This is one of the most amazing snowboarding videos I have ever seen.  In another life I was a semi-pro snowboarder, but even just watching this video makes me cringe.

Uppers

Made a quick run to Uppers with Rob to introduce him to the Northshore.  Met lucas and danced our way across the rocks to hop in.  Nothing big was showing and the infrequent chest high sets made for long waits, but the crowd was right.. just the three of us.  Managed a couple fun rights on the KG 6'4" quad fish.  Nothing special except the water was clear, the air was warm and the sun shining.  Life is great!












Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, standup, sup, hawaii, oahu, waves

SUP session

Tried to go surf Sunday morning with the boys, but the dying NW swell and winds made it near impossible to find anything worth driving to the Northshore for. Instead, we loaded up my SUP (Standup Paddle) boards and went for a session to show Mark, Paul and Rob life standing up. We had a great time.. good excercise. The winds nearly took us out to sea, but always nice to get wet.

A couple videos:

Where's the surf?

Woke up this morning to rain coming down.  Didn't get a chance to go standup surf this morning with Hampig.  There's a big swell heading to the country this weekend and I hope that means a leeward side wrap.  I have been dry for a long time and hoping for a surf this weekend.  Hope you have been getting wet.









Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, standup, SUP, waves, oahu, hawaii

Where's the surf?

Woke up this morning to rain coming down.  Didn't get a chance to go standup surf this morning with Hampig.  There's a big swell heading to the country this weekend and I hope that means a leeward side wrap.  I have been dry for a long time and hoping for a surf this weekend.  Hope you have been getting wet.









Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, standup, SUP, waves, oahu, hawaii

Fishy fishy

Headed out to DH on a whim this morning on the way to work.... threw my 6'4" quad fish in the car and was planning to just take a look. A little sideshore wind blowing from the East around 8:30, but managed a couple fun waves at Lighthouse. It was fun to take the fish and really get that speed down the line and carve up and down. I think this board would rock on a big long pointbreak. Good to get wet, even if just for an hour.

DH fun

Wow.. definitely a night and day scenario. Headed out to DH early yesterday morning for a quick surf on the Bing. Small kine waves rolling through with hardly a wisp of wind. Super fun to be loggin it again. Good chance for me to get back into shape before going back to the northshore. Managed to get one killer wave... it walled up about waist high for a nice long hang ten, then back stepped as it pitched a bit to get a teeny weeny coverup, more like water splashing on my shoulder, but felt good. Zipped through that section and the wave opened up again for a another noseride with a fade back. Good fun and all to myself!

Technorati Tags: waves, hawaii, oahu, surf, surfing

Haleiwa Beach Park

Headed to the Northshore with Mark and Paul yesterday. Was all excited to get in the water and surf again after such a long hiatus. What I didn't prepare myself for was some junky large surf still rolling through. We drove around looking in front of Jeff's house, then up to Marijuana's, but finally ended up at Haleiwa beach park. I was a bit nervous getting in the water (mistake #1) as the current was viciously pulling folks into the impact zone and the waves were gurgling through at almost double overhead. Most guys may say it was a little overhead, but those are the same guys that were killing it out there. I paddled out with Reggie who gave me the warnings about the toilet bowl and current. As we got out to the lineup, a wave pitch up right by Reggie who let it go. I of course spun and went for it.. nice drop, but then the wave just pitched up a couple of feet and I was on an elevator.. kept trying to stay in the wave face on my NS 7'6" gun... made it across and off the wave. As I spun to paddle back out, I was caught in the current and there was a five wave set about to explode.. wait, it did explode on my head. I just kept taking wave after wave, unable to paddle out to the channel. Exhausted already (yes, very out of shape), I got spun on one wave and just belly boarded back to the beach. Bummed and disappointed at myself. I can hardly call myself a surfer anymore... just a landlubber trying to get wet. Shoots.

Technorati Tags: waves, hawaii, oahu, surf, surfing