Haleiwa Beach Park

Headed to the Northshore with Mark and Paul yesterday. Was all excited to get in the water and surf again after such a long hiatus. What I didn't prepare myself for was some junky large surf still rolling through. We drove around looking in front of Jeff's house, then up to Marijuana's, but finally ended up at Haleiwa beach park. I was a bit nervous getting in the water (mistake #1) as the current was viciously pulling folks into the impact zone and the waves were gurgling through at almost double overhead. Most guys may say it was a little overhead, but those are the same guys that were killing it out there. I paddled out with Reggie who gave me the warnings about the toilet bowl and current. As we got out to the lineup, a wave pitch up right by Reggie who let it go. I of course spun and went for it.. nice drop, but then the wave just pitched up a couple of feet and I was on an elevator.. kept trying to stay in the wave face on my NS 7'6" gun... made it across and off the wave. As I spun to paddle back out, I was caught in the current and there was a five wave set about to explode.. wait, it did explode on my head. I just kept taking wave after wave, unable to paddle out to the channel. Exhausted already (yes, very out of shape), I got spun on one wave and just belly boarded back to the beach. Bummed and disappointed at myself. I can hardly call myself a surfer anymore... just a landlubber trying to get wet. Shoots.

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