Bagus Surf

First Monster Swell

So the first monster swell of the season came in last night.  I was up at Mr. Lee's house on crozier last night and it looked messy.. lots of north wind and very short period.  It was supposed to peak last night.  I guess leeward side might be good today as the winds are shifting back to trades and it is probably not raining.  I am still hacking and coughing.. can't seem to kick this cold.  Does not help that I am only getting 3-4 hours sleep a night from waking myself up coughing.  No surf in site for me.. sucks.  I need to paddle.. arghhh.  Someday soon.







Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, hawaii, oahu, waves

Happy Happy Holidays

Lots of religions around the world, so saying Merry xmas is really a shortcoming for this time of year. I always try to just say happy holidays, because after all, it is a time to stop, relax and reflect on the past year. The weather in Hawaii has been perfect the past several days.. I even managed to get out for a morning paddle two days in a row on the 9'10" Bing. Fantastic, clean glassy conditions and the big board was just eating up the ankle biters at DH. No complaints.. good to get out and even better to get some tip time. Today, I decided to stay home and do the family thing... although a really bad night of sleep did help dissuade me from a DP. Been fighting a cold and this leftover hack is keeping me up all night. Oh well. Best to you all!

Surf Surf Surf!

Who says there's no global warming... it is Dec 18th and we have a high surf advisory for the South shore with good sized sets rolling all up and down the coastline. I headed out to Courts this morning on the 7'6" Miller single fin egg and had a blast. It was a bit wobbly at times, but good strong swell lines pushed through. Lots of boys on big boards, but I did manage to get a couple here and there. Got worked on a few inside steep sections taking off on my egg with no rocker. Took Lani out for her first paddle out at ala moana. Good times and not even that windy. I bet it was a beautiful day. Thinking of an evening session, but the arms are spent... sore.. hoping I recover for another dawnie tomorrow.

Late season south swell!!

I was amazed to see frothing white wash run down the line from Brown's to lighthouse.  There were lumps and bumps and OH waves all over.  I only had my 6'6", but jumped in and paddled out to lighthouse with gusto.  Pretty crowded, but managed to snag a fun drop and turn.  This Rawson likes to find a fast line and it is hard to snap it off the line to turn up the wave face.  But it can sure hold and generate speed down the line.  After what looked like a soup bowl of faces, I paddled over to cliff's and saw Fannie, Corey and Terry.. good to see old faces in the lineup.  I managed to stroke into a 4ft OH wave late,... oh sooo late, I got wiped out and thrashed to the bottom.. It was low tide and got nice scars on the foot to prove it.  I was tired and out of shape, but good to be back in waves and feeling the freshness of the ocean.  Good stiff sideshores, but nothing too bad.











Technorati Tags: hawaii, oahu, surf, surfing, waves

28 days dry

I can't believe this, but it has been 28 days since I last surfed.  One of the good things about keeping an online surf journal is to remember those great sessions.. but the bummer is it is easy to keep track of time between sessions.  My new company is doing well an we are working like crazy.  I am hoping to slow down a bit over the holidays and get my fat ass back in the water and shed some of this weight.

In an utter act of desperation, I paddled out to DH this morning in victory at sea conditions on the 6'6" just to get some exercise.  30 mins of paddling and the arms started to give out.  Arghh.. gonna takes weeks to get back into any sort of form for the season.  Oh well, hope no one missed me.

Technorati Tags: hawaii, oahu, surf, surfing, waves