Paradise

Had an amazing session this morning with Mr. Lee and Reggie after a poker night at in the country. Lots of north in the swell so we went up the line. Lani's was looking really good, but really crowded. Knowing the swell direction, we went straight to Mary Jane's and jumped in for a sweet two hour plus session. On my 8'6" Miller I was a bit hesitant at first due to being out of shape and fat... but after stroking into a couple nice long rights it was all good. There was no wind, blue skies and a decent swell coming through. A couple head high waves broke all the way across the reef and plenty of turns and noseriding to be had. On one wave I was perched on the nose high on a wave looking down at Reggie and he looked 10-12 feet below me. I love to surf!