Bagus Surf

Paradise

Had an amazing session this morning with Mr. Lee and Reggie after a poker night at in the country. Lots of north in the swell so we went up the line. Lani's was looking really good, but really crowded. Knowing the swell direction, we went straight to Mary Jane's and jumped in for a sweet two hour plus session. On my 8'6" Miller I was a bit hesitant at first due to being out of shape and fat... but after stroking into a couple nice long rights it was all good. There was no wind, blue skies and a decent swell coming through. A couple head high waves broke all the way across the reef and plenty of turns and noseriding to be had. On one wave I was perched on the nose high on a wave looking down at Reggie and he looked 10-12 feet below me. I love to surf!

Big Surf!

Surf this weekend?

I am hoping to get back in the water this weekend... I feel like a dried up fish waiting for my turn to get wet.  Mr. Lee said the surf in front of his house was perfect yesterday and he sneaked out for a 1 hour session even with all the work piling up for x-mas orders.  Hard to get out out of the work funk to surf.. need to surf!











Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves

On the road and Dry

For anyone reading this blog and wondering why there has been such a long hiatus.. it is because I have been gearing up for a relaunch of my company chipin.com. It has been difficult work reworking the user interface as well as trying to fundraise to keep building. We are working on an evolution to our concept, which unfortunately may keep me out of the water for a while longer. I am finally home for two weeks and hoping to shed some pounds and get back in the water.