Bagus Surf

Surfing is life

California Daze

Been out in SF for the past week, so no water time.  Returned late last night and up early for a DP at DH.  Super glassy slick conditions.  Reminds me of surfing in Santa Cruz.  Not much swell, but plenty of fun on the Cooperfish.  Big, heavy, singlefin.  Lots of tip time, 5's, 10's and some in between.  Good two hour sesh before my arms gave out.  Good to be home, but off again Monday night.









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Leftovers

Had my first country surf of the season. Headed up early with Mark and Paul and grabbed the 6'8" Pang. I was worried that my fat ass was not going to be able to paddle the shortboard. We drove by Jeff's place, but it was a bit too small although the conditions were clean. Amazing how many folks out at F's, used to be a nice spot to get away from the crowds. We decided to go up the line and ended up at Leftovers. Lots of folks out, but the only spot getting the dying swell. A bit of sideshore, but decent conditions. Not enough waves, and long lulls with flat waves rolling through.

I did get a couple nice lefts, and really got to have fun with the shortboard.. even had a couple shortboard moves whipping up some spray once or twice. Made a nice top turn into the bowling section of the left.. felt just like my old snowboarding days. good to get wet.