Bagus Surf

Swift

Headed out to Aina's today and met Mark for a Sat morning early surf. Sideshore winds chopped it up a bit with squalls rolling through. A couple super fun rights that were zippy all down the line. The new 9'4" Miller absolutely performs on fast waves and handles chops well. No complaints.. good times!

Sore but good

Surfed my brains out on Saturday, so much so that I was too sore to go out yesterday.. pulled something in my left shoulder. Took a day off and headed out early this a.m. to Queens... good stuff. Head high sets rolling through all morning with many a zippy rights and lefts. A bit wobbly with not the best shape, but good enough for me on the new 9'4" pintail single fin. Love the new board! Wondering if I have enough in me for an afternoon session on the short board.... Plenty surf through Wed. Go get some!

Double session

Had a fun day surfing yesterday. Out to DH super early for some washing machine type conditions. Waves breaking all over the place with a sideshore breeze blowing through. Met up with Corey and had a fun time on the new Miller 9'4" single fin. Surfed three hours and caught a handful of fun waves. Relatively crowded, but the spread out peaks kept everyone stretched along the lineup. Went back out end of day with Jeff and Lucas to lighthouse. Fun waves rolling through and managed to catch one super clean right that was fast, speedy and walled up all down the line. Wow, this new Miller really moves when it gets that speed line. I did manage to get thrown over on two waves, a combination of my arms noodling and having about three feet more board than needed on the steep drops. Missed DP this morning b/c of Jenna's b-day bash, and plenty of FBI last night. Will let the high tide pass and hit it for a late afternoon paddle.

Lusty Slide Show

Just because I have been offline for soooo long, here's a little treat for you all...

Back in the water!

Finally back in the water after a two week hiatus travelling for work on the mainland.  Nice to be back.  Arrived late last night to feel calm conditions.  Didn't matter if there were waves, I was gonna get out.  Up and out of bed at 4 for a little work, then out to DH at dawn.  The new 9'8" Bing in hand jumped in and paddled out.  Sort of choppy with sideshore winds already on it.  No matter a couple waves and smiles all around.  Jan and Doug are moving to Australia tomorrow, so it was nice to see them.  Out by 7 and back on the laptop.  Good to be alive!










Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, hawaii, oahu, waves