Bagus Surf

Two for one

Quick sessions... enough to get wet. Paddled out to Queens yesterday for a couple fun waves on the 9'6" Miller. There's a big longboard contest (Corona Longboard contest) this week at Queens so the groms were out in the lineup. 90 pound kids on big old school boards, tough to outpaddle. They were fine, but damn the older guys (fat and white yes) were wave hogs and damn if I now understand why they get yelled at... this one guy totally would take off way deep and instead of going left would cut hard right and tromp over everyone in his way. I would only get out of the way b/c I love my board.

Today I headed out at 5:30 for a quick session at DH. It was a fun session as the sun was coming up over the horizon. The waves sort of died out as soon as the crowds showed up. I was surprised that the waves were pretty zippy and that was fun on the 9'2" ITP. Good times, great to see old faces. Aloha!

short and sweet

The bummer sometimes of keeping a surf blog is that I realize how much time I spend out of the water due to work.  But what I also realize is that each day I get in for a surf is precious and jotting down some notes about those sessions puts a smile on my face all day.  This morning headed out with the 9'6" Bob Miller noserider to Queens for a quick paddle.  Jumped in at the movie screen as usual to warm up on my paddle over.  Caught about five waves, hung five, toes over.... stoked!  The total session was under 60 mins, but no matter, I got wet, caught a couple of waves, and plenty aloha all around.







Technorati Tags: oahu, hawaii, surf, surfing, waves

perfection

Headed out at 6:30 a.m. to meet mark and paul at Aina's... calm to no winds, glassy, almost oily sea surface and a nice pulse of south swell still in town.  The first hour was a bit funky, but enough coming through for the four of us that no complaints could be found.  Then it started to clean up and peeling rights bombed through one after another.  Everyone, well all five of us by this point were getting wave after wave.  I was on the DT-2 and managed to pull off a super late drop that had my nose under water as I leaned back, grabbing rail and somehow speared my board down the line.  It was sooooo glassy... so smooth, like cutting putter as you carved the wave face to slide into the slot, small cover up, then steep wall section inside for the noseride.  Sooo much fun, but had to get out by 9 to work.  Hope you all got some!  Maybe more this week?  Let's see what the trades do.










Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves