Bagus Surf

Back and off again

Got back late Sat night.. sooo tired from work in SF.. was up 47 hours at one point.  Too much!  Headed out for a quick surf Sunday late morning and had a fun time in the water at DH.  Enough to satisfy the soul and to charge up for a long dry spell.  Seems like there was perfect southshore conditions for the entire week I was gone.  Smooth glassy sea surface and just enough juice in the water to keep boards moving.  I am now off for two weeks to a wedding in Colorado and back to work in SF.  Been planning a surf trip for this fall to Nicaragua... nailed done some dates and a house in Popoyo.  Now if I can just get some water time in before Sept :)  Did pick up a new board this week.. Dave Parmenter 6'5", pretty thick 2 3/4 with glass on fins.  I hope it is a good travel board, although not sure with the glass on, but it is glassed heavy.  6/6 on top and 6/4 down low.














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Dreamin of surf

I'm off again tomorrow night to SF for a week of work.  Sweet surf dreams for all!













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smallish south swell

Woke up Sat morning expecting a south shore high surf advisory... ran out of the house to Publics, and arghhh... nothing much showing at all.  Small sets rolling through once in a while and even on my DT-2, it was tough to catch waves of much consequence.  Managed to head out later in the morning to old man's.. and even with the winds howling, there was a bit more juice in the water.  Met Todd who was ripping on his standup paddleboard he just had shaped by Dave Parmenter.  EPS/Epoxy.  It was only 9'6" but super thick and wide and well looked super fun.  There was a photog shooting the session.  Had fun catching a bunch of waves, even though on rights, I would almost get blown off the ITP.

This morning headed out with Mark to the same spot as it looked small everywhere.  There was not much swell left, but we still managed to catch a couple fun ones.  A good weekend of time in the water, no complaints.















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Swift eggy

Took the 7'6" single fin egg out this morning planning for a quick dip in at 3's.  I didn't have much time as I had to be back in the office by 8 a.m.  Ended up paddling in to Queens instead of making the long walk across Waikiki.  Had a tough time trying to out paddle the longboards, but did manage to get a couple fun waves, small cover ups (sort of) and a few fast walls inside as the wave reformed.  I love this egg, don't get it out enough as it really like fast smooth waves.  As more longboarders headed out, it was just too tough to get into the right position to get waves as many many 10+ footers were already paddling in from the outside.  NO complaints, beautiful morning, nice waves, good times.  More swell on the way I think.












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South swell cranking

Town's cranking with this south swell rolling through.  Trades are also howling with a super high tide around sunset.  Didn't get out today as I made a tactical error going to the eye docter this morning.. they dialated my eyes so I have not been able to go outside most of the day. Bummer.  I also have wayyy too much work.  Mark called and said Panics was fun.  Fannie gave me the report that inside queens were barrels.  Stuff's happening all over the place.  Maybe a sunset surf on the hight tide?













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Barefoot Surf

Need to surf.. it's 9 a.m. on Sat and I have been on this computer working since 4 a.m.  Totally missed my dawn patrol plans.  Too much going on.  Hopefully get out in the water later today, but it may be blown out.  Had a nice quick session yesterday morning at DH, caught a couple fun waves.  Sometimes a surf session only needs one wave, and I definitely got that yesterday.  Out on the 9'2" In the Pink and caught a slow rolling right along the middle reef on the low tide.  The wave kept building, cross-stepped to the nose as the wall went vertical and voila.. floating barefoot on the wave hanging ten.  It truly is the most amazing feeling on a surfboard to be ten toes over feeling like you are barefoot surfing.  Ahhh.. that moment lasts for days, especially when I can't get out in the water...











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Shorty

Headed out early this morning with Mr. Fox to Aina's for a fun session on the 6'6".  It was a bit warbly and the sideshores filled in, but always good to get back in the water.  Arms were jello after paddling for a while on the shorter board, but had a couple nice rides and wow, the speed is fun.  Saw a bunch of the regulars in the water and it was definitely a more mellow crowd than in town.  Waves still had some punch to them, but a bunch seemed to close out quickly.






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