Bagus Surf

Quiet summer

It has been a pretty quiet summer for the southshore.  I was in SF all last week and heard there was a nice little bump with super clean conditions.  DH was a zoo.  I managed to get out this weekend on Sat for a quick morning surf at Aina's.  Good to see the boys out in the water again and the DT-2 proved to be the right board with the slight sideshore and funkiness on the low tide.  Followed that session with a quick Monday morning surf at Queens to just get a bit of the dying swell.  Always good to get a couple nice hang fives.  I am back in SF again this week and will miss the small south arriving Wed/Thurs.  Oh well.  Hope you all got some!









Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves

ChipIn.com Launches

After six months.... no surf, no play, but we are live!  http://www.chipin.com

Hopefully someday I will have time to surf, swim, play, get tubed, whatevers....














Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, waves

Launch

Long weekend, no sleep, but we finally launched our new company today.  If anyone is reading this, check out our beta site at http://beta.chipin.com and drop me a note to tell me what you think!










Technorati Tags: hawaii, oahu, waves, surf, surfing

Smooth and glassy

Headed out for a quick surf this morning at Queens.  Small south swell in town and lots of good aloha in the water.  Very glassy and fun for everyone.  Soon the crowds starting coming out and it was time for me to head in.  Lots going on in that part of town.  Filipino parade, Triathalon at ala moana and people out at the park have a great time.  Took out the Tak In the Pink.. wish that board was heavier as the epoxy just doesn't give the board enough glide and weight.  Beautiful day.. hope you all got some.









Technorati Tags: waves, surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii

Dropping in and tucking

Well, it may not be dropping into a wave, but we are surely dropping in and tucking as we prepare to launch our public beta for chipin.com on Monday.  We are totally revising the user interface with a new logo and look.  The engineers are struggling with the site migration from our prototype infrastructure to a more scalable solution.  But things are humming.  I was meeting with some investors today to give them a sneak preview.  Good or bad, but the surf is flat with nothing really happening out there.  I have been dreaming of surf and maybe getting a new board for the summer.  I have two boards on the market to sell right now, my 10'2" Bob Miller and my 7'2" Patagonia Rocket Sled.  Both in brand new condition.  Ok.. on to the show.










Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves

Logssss

Headed out this weekend for a couple quick morning surfs on the big 10' log at Queens.  Good times with the south still in town and the water getting cleaner.  Had a great time seeing old faces in the lineup and having a great time on the nose.  I think it was pretty nice all over the southshore with offshores.  We are a week away from launch so surf has been hard to find, but must get wet!












Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, waves, oahu, hawaii

First Wave, Last Wave

Yesterday paddled out to DH and had a great time back in the water.  It is always great to think back on the waves of a session, and usually the first or last wave of a paddle out stick in my mind most.  Yesterday, it was definitely the last wave.  I am pretty out of shape and the arms were tired just paddling out to a mellow break.  Lots of people in the water and it was hard to find waves most of the morning.  Usually when I make the mental note that it is about time to head in I jinx myself and get nothing.  Well, yesterday I snagged a fantastic right that walled up down the line.  I cross-stepped to the nose, ducked down, and scooted along with a nice vertical wall rushing by my head.  Ahhhhh, what a feeling.. surfing is great!

This morning the conditions sort of fell apart as it was low tide, junk water moving and a morning sickness.  Calm winds again.  Probably clean up later this afternoon.  Lots of fun at DH and almost no one out.  A couple fun waves, no complaints. Good to be alive!










Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, waves, oahu, hawaii

Anticipation

South swell supposed to arrive tonight.  Anticipation for surf, for waves, for aloha.  Can't sleep much, can't work much, thinking of waves, getting my boards in the water, beating the rush of townies out to the lineup.  I love to surf, and sometimes I forget until the anticipation of a swell in town.  Oh yeh!


















Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves

Grom Fest

Didn't really surf this weekend, but did head out to Alii Beach park with the Lees to watch the groms rip it up.  Took the little kids out on a couple inside breakers.  Got to hang at the beach for a couple of hours.  NIce to get out of town and chill for the night and morning.  Conditions this morning are perfect for longboarding DH I bet with no winds out.  South swell on the way later this week, so work work work so I can maybe get out for a surf.









Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, hawaii, oahu, waves