Bagus Surf

Perfect Day for surf

I am sure it is a perfect day for surf all over the island today.  I keep just thinking.. next year, next year.  If my new company makes it, I will definitely take a big chunk of time off to surf.  Hard to balance the work/surf equation these days.  Hard to be a grown up for sure.  Anyways, for those who have figured it out and are out surfing, cheers to all of you and I hope you caught that magical wave today.  NorCal is getting hammered by rain and Cali is getting the scraps from our monster NW swells.  Here's a pic from Ocean Beach (my old stomping grounds) on a 50 foot day last year.  No, I don't go out in anything near that big.




Technorati Tags: surf, oahu, waves

SwabbyLand

Yesterday was a great day to get back out in the water.  Headed out super early DP with Mr. Lee to one of his favorite spots out by the Coast Guard planes.  No one in the water when we arrived to see another Mr. Lee in the lot.  The three of us paddled out and had a blast, just three of us for about 90 mins.  Lots of nice overhead rights rolling through with lots of wave face to carve and a super fast section inside ont he sandbar.  Managed to whack myself a couple of times not kicking out before the sandbar, but oh well.. be one with the tube eh?  I had my 9'2" DT-2, but wished I had an 8' or so thruster with a bit of extra foam.  The Lee's were ripping it up on their perfect boards for the wave.  Lots of bodies started to come out and we headed in around 10 with the winds just starting to show.  All in all, another amazing session at the fabled spot.  Goot wrap.  Heard from a buddy in town there was a mysto swell hitting Castles with headhigh waves rolling through? Fact or fiction, not sure. Hope you all had a merry holiday season.  On to another great year of surf.




Technorati Tags: surf, report, oahu

Technorati Tags: surf, report, oahu

Christmas Eve

Da country is going off today with 20-25 footers rolling through to give everyone that can accept a nice x-mas present.  Not much of a x-mas person myself as I get a bit annoyed with all the consumerism that goes on this season.  I appreciate and really like the sense of family and giving, but it is a bit overboard to see all the stuff people feel obligated to buy.  Better to spend the money and time enjoying time with loved ones (or maybe getting a nice board.. hah).  anyways, I got out early to DH to get wet and found a couple fun ones in there.  Super crowded by 8 ish, but oh well, it is a beautiful day, so why not get in the water instead of a shopping mall.

Good Morning, Good Afternoon and Good Day

Greetings everyone in cyberspace today.  I hope you are all getting ready for the mad x-mas holiday rush.  Wish there was more sane surf around, but it is pretty big and messy in the da country.  I am sure there are pockets of good surf out West and Eastside if the winds stay down.  Anyways, wishing everyone a happy and safe holiday and hope you all find your magic wave!  Aloha.

Northshore is groovy I am sure

Didn't get a chance to get out again to the northshore, but I am sure it is groovy and clean with little winds this morning and a manageable swell.  Lots of ugly action coming in the next couple of days.

Pick your favorite from this year's winners!

technorati tags: hawaii, surf, surf report, surf journal, oahu surf journal, hawaii surf blog

Mr. Hughes

Well Mr. Hughes calls and says why no posts for a couple of days?  That's b/c I have been sitting in meeting rooms with our new programmers working on the prototype.  But b/c it is the holidays.. some pics to make you smile.

Mr. Sutherland

Saw the man himself out at his break this morning.  Left for an early DP with mark and paul and drove around for a while looking at surf down to Daystar and then back across to Holtons and such and finally landed at Mr. Sutherlands' breadk.  Saw him out with the boys.  A bit jumbled but still good solid sets rolling through.  My first time out at this spot so sat and watched from the shoulder for a while.  Lots of bombs coming through and wow, super powerful wave and whitewater.  After a couple failed attempts finnaly got into the groove handling the walls of water rolling through.,  Managed to snag a couple fun lefts and even a right.  My last wave was the wave of the day as I dropped into a tall stepp left that shot me out like a rocket.  Was sort of tired and super out of shape so didn't last long.  Stopped at Surf n sea and picked up a used 7'6" gun so now I can ride with the boys.  Oh yeh!

cheers Cube dwellers

To all you cube dwellers trying to balance work and play, cheers!  Here I sit on a beautiful sunny day in paradise writing about Web 2.0 and other garbage for my business plan.  Mr. Hughes motivated me to post up a tribute to all of you that can't ge away today to enjoy the outdoors.

Which would you prefer?

a nap
or a perfect wave?

Leave your comments below.  Aloha!

x-mas money

Sold the 7'2" epoxy takayama egg today for x-mas cash... sorry to see it go, but there will be others, plus it is an epoxy, so they are all the same anyways.  PTH sent me a great article today on big wave tow in surfing in Oregon

Pipe Masters Live!

Pipe Masters Live

Things are underway on the northshore with this new NW swell arriving.  Could end up pretty large and clean this morning.