Bagus Surf

life is soooo goood

    Finally got to get out for a couple amazing sessions.  Yesterday morning with Mark and Paul out at Turtle Bay for a fun couple of rides on the 7'2".  Lots of lefts and rights with wide open faces to carve away!  Long paddle out and in but definitely worth the time.  I love looking back towards shore to see the jungle.. feels like being on a far off island somewhere on a surf trip.  Yesterday evening paddled out for a quick sunset session in front of Jeff's house before the b-day party.  super fun even with the funky bumps, just perfect to watch the sun fall over the point with just the two of us in the water.  To thinkn the weekend was a perfect surf experience.. this morning I paddled out to Fuji's for a super clean small kine session.. Paddled until my arms were going to fall off.  Life is good!

be gone sickness

Up at 5:30 a.m. this morning for a drive to da country with Mfox and Paul.  We headed right out to their little spot by turtle bay.  It was looking a bit small until we saw a nice set roll through.  Long paddle out, but it was worth it.  Super fun rights and lefts of a shifty peak had by all.  I dropped a couple nice faces, but kept sliding out my tail.  managed to zip down the line with some fun bottom to top carves.  As per usual did get caught on two big sets inside for a pounding.  Always a bit tough when I can hardly hold my breath without having to cough.  Great day, great session.  A bit overcast and rainy, but smooth water all around.  Did finally figure out I have the wrong board for the winter.  Too wide, too much shoulders and hips and no v in the tail.  Off to find a used board tomorrow I hope.

fucking sickness

Still fighting this cold.  Sucks.. perfect surf conditions in da country and my morning free.  Bad timing I guess.  Hope you all got some.  Here's a funny thing on Fuck check it out! 

sick as a dog

How did the term sick as a dog ever get coined?  Well that has been me the past couple of days... sniffling snotting and watching the OP pro on the web.  Awesome surf on the northshore right now with the pros just getting pounded out at Haleiwa.  Great coverage at: http://www.triplecrownofsurfing.com/haleiwa/live.php

Also heard epic town surf the past couple of days with yesterday morning at courts being all time.  Thanks for the reports.. anyone else got a first hand report of their session?

Pipe today...

courts for a quicky

Headed out to courts just before noon for a quick hour session.  Fun waves all around with a nice couple of rights zipping along.  Was working well on the low tide with just a slight sideshore/offshore breeze and a small wobble in the water.  Lots of LBs in the water having a great time.  Still got a nasty head cold, so not sure if I will make it out again today, but should still be some little pulses in the water.  Get out and enjoy!

Surf in town??

Publics was showing some fun last night.  At my desk now at 7:45 am, but planning on heading out as the tide drops.  Maybe somewhere in Ala Moana?  Back to Publics?  Where to go and what board to bring.. ahhhh life in Paradise is not bad is it?  Back with a report later this morning.

little pulse showing at Publics

Drove by publics just before sunset to see a couple tasty little nugs roll through with some fun lip smashing rides zipping along the razor sharp coral heads.  Conditions were perfect with slight offshores and clear skies.  How I wish I had my board in the car.  Need to leave one in the car from now on.  Anyways.. lots of surf heading to da country later this week with the triple crown starting for sure.

Cliffy

Lots of errands around the house so no trip to da country for me this morning.  Headed out locally to DH instead.  Started off with my longboard, but ended up coming home and grabbing the 7'2" egg instead.  Paddled out to LH around 7 a.m. and caught a bunch of really fun rights that held up with zippy little walls.  Managed to flo a couple good turns.  also easy to get jacked on the inside trying to tuck into the micro barrels.  Headed over to cliffs to say hi to Lora and dingled dangled a few fun rides.  also managed to get worked on a couple of waves.  good stuff with plenty of sideshore winds kicking in.  Another beautiful day in paradise. 

blissful bombs

Finally had a morning with no meetings to rush off to, no time schedule, nothing but me, my board, good buddies and northshore surf.  Small confused swell arrived last night.  Picked up BJ and Mr. Lee and headed down the line.  Sort of mixed up and jumbled as we drove, nothing really spectacular.  Ended up at 420's with almost no one else out.  A good crowd at Alligator's, and one or two at the point.  We had the place almost to ourselves and caught a couple nice sets rolling through.  4-6 on the bigger sets with one or two close out sets reaching 6-8ish.  Nice long right walls to play on.  Out on the 8'6" that I leave on the northshore.  Forgot how fun it is.  All in all a wonderful day out on the water with plenty of fun open rides to fill me up.  Lazily headed back into town around noon.  Maybe an arvo session in town?  There's supposed to be another north swell arriving Sat/Sun so maybe head back up later this long weekend.  Aloha!

surf finally!

Finally some surf this morning.  60 mins of bliss.  Jumped in at Panic's for a quick session on the 7'2" egg.  Nothing special but had a couple fun rides.  Swell was looking good but the higher tide was killing it.  Sideshore winds.  Looking for a morning session in da country tomorrow morning with Mr. Lee.  Feel refreshed.