Bagus Surf

Quicky

Had about 45 mins and made a quick mission to Panics for a surf.  Plopped into the water on the high tide to get wet and feel a board under me again.  There was a little pulse in the water, must have been better when the tide was lower in the morning.  Side shore breeze, but did manage to get three little nug in.  Only one other guy out.  The ride of the day was a nice lazy right across into Panics with a little bump and grind on the 7'2" egg.  Thought I was surfing again.  Ahhhhh good to be wet.

Back and foggy

Back in town, but head's very foggy from the long flight and an early morning meeting today.  Think there's a bit of North swell around and possible teeeny town pulse.  Trying to find a little time for a dip today. 

Off in Bangkok

Hey all... not even sure what the ocean looks like today as I am in Bangkok with my grandfather who is very sick.  Trying to spend some quality time with him while he is still coherent.  Will be back on Sunday, but already dreading what looks like a crazy week of catchup at work.  Stoke me out and post a report of your surf sessions would ya?  I can live vicarously through you all as I sit in my flourescent lit hospital room.  aloha!

Big Bad Big Daddy

Today was my first foray into the Big Daddy longboard surf luau up at Marijuana's.  It was a big, nasty, wild and wooly day up in da country.  Had a late night with Mr. Lee playing poker, drinking and eating into the wee hours of this morning.  Needless to say setting up and paddling out into absolutely wild waves was crazy.  My head was pounding.  It was breaking out at second reef.  No one but us crazies in the contest were even paddling out to surf.  I must say it felt more like survival out there than surfing.  Did manage to drop into what would have been the wave of the heat, but managed to nosedive my DT-2 on the bottom turn and ate shit ala Superman.  It was definitely not a good day to be out there, and even worse on longboards.  But the spirit of the event was for a fun time by all.  The swell is definitely picking up and will be maxing out by tonight for sure.  Windy, rainy conditions all over the island.

I am off to Thailand for a week to visit my sick grandpa.. so you all hold down the fort while I am gone...

Going out no matter...

I am heading out to get wet this morning no matter what.  Got a 9:30 a.m. meeting which gives me a little time to get my head in the water.  Probably head out to DH as there's not much swell in town and the winds look calm at 4:45 a.m. at my house.  I'll be surfing in the Big Daddy this weekend, so figured I better at least paddle around for a bit today to make sure the arms still work.  Thanks for all the great comments the past two days, makes it fun to know there's a small growing community of folks visiting.  Keep posting comments!  Feel free to talk story, post conditions, etc.

Paul Ferraris is a photog from San Francisco who make many surf trips down to his homeland of Mexico

Worker Bee

I am no longer a surfer (at least temporarily) but a worker bee.  Two jobs and starting a new company have me out of the water and dry.  I do hope it is all worth it some day as word has it surf has been tremendously clean and good the past two weeks with nice little pulses on all sides of the island and clean, calm conditions.  ahhh, what it would be like to be in da country sitting in the lineup right now... focus, focus... one of these projects is going to pay off and I can then take time to surf to my heart's delight.  Back to the premise... missing waves, they never come back.

Thanks for the comments yesterday and emails from folks.. funny to see other folks actually read this blog.  I better be a bit more careful on what I write :)  Today is an amazinngly beautiful day in Honolulu.. good to be alive!

Rant and Rave

I always thought someday this little surf blog would become a bit of an online community to discuss all things related to surf, sun, ocean, waves.  Not even sure how many people visit the site, but that does not matter.. it was originally set up just for me to rant and rave to myself.  It would be nice to see who visits, so if you don't mind, drop a comment once in a while.. maybe we can get some good dialogue going.. or post your own stories in the comments (pics are always welcome!!).  Saw the pic and caption online this morning.. couldn't pass it up.

Even though they fit perfectly, I bet her father hates those shorts.

Another fine day

I am sure it is another fine day outside for a surf.  Swell is small on all sides of the island with the end of the first NW swell of the season.  Good time for many to catch up on work and chores.  Nothing really on the horizon, but we know the storms are waiting to brew.  NorCal got a good dose this past week of the swell.  Fun pics and some shots of places I have surfed..

Rincon

OB

What's wrong with me?

I can't believe I missed a perfect day in the country.  Too much work.  Got two jobs and a new company I am starting.. hopefully some day it will all be worthwhile and I can take long surf trips somewhere in the world.  It is hard to balance life sometimes.. do I work hard now and surf later?  Is it worth to give up something in hopes of getting more of something else?  I sometimes just sit and wish I could be simple and work a little, eat a little, sleep a little, surf alot.  It is good to know that other folks are enjoying the ocean, surf, swell.  Life is good, we are privileged.  Aloha.

Da Glide

Didn't have time to head to country, but heard the swell was on the way down with the new NW swell not arriving until tonight.  Headed out on the new Cooperfish Malibu Foil to queens and had a nice time in the lovely warm waters of paradise.  Nothing special, just a couple of rides, but good to see smiles in the lineup.  Saw some folks I have not seen in a while.  Just caught it on the .3 low tide, then time to get out.  DH looked fun, but couldn't really get parking b/c of the marathon or something going on this morning.  Get out and enjoy the lovely day.