Bagus Surf

small kine surf

dropped off the new Malibu Foil to Jay Rush today to get fixed after the monster ding it received from DHX shipping it from LA.  Can't wait to get it in the water.  Still have not gotten in this week, but drove by Kewalos to see just some small stuff coming through on the high high tide.  Supposed to get a bump in the country, but nasty weather also.

Here comes the surf

Surf is supposed to bump on the southshore tonight...

Glassy in Cali

Surf conditions were super glassy this weekend in NorCal as I drove up the coast.  Super warm, sunny, glassy, clean conditions.  Classic cali surfing.  Made me even think about jumping in if I had a suit and board.  Hope we get waves soon.

OB cold and windy

Drove up Hwy 1 today from Monterey.  Not much working along the coast.  Sunny in Santa Cruz, but foggy as I headed through HMB.  Cold and foggy in the City.  Did run into an old surf pal, bkoski and had a nice chat before he headed out to Sloat to some crumbly wind swept shore pounders.  Reminds me how hardy surfers in NorCal must be.  No surf for me.. fat and out of shape from sitting all week and eating/drinking.  So pics to dream about surf.

Sitting in Monterey

Sitting in Monterey at the TNC annual meeting.  Weather is classic California Indian summer with fog burning off to sunny warm weather.  I am sitting inside most of the day, but I know it is beautiful for sure.  Missing the water, but will be back by Monday.  With all the talk about climate change, warming ocean waters, and loss of biological diversity, here's a couple pics to hold you over...

Publics Two Step

Quick session out early this morning at Publics.  Swell still sort of rumbling through, but the offshores were stiff.  Paddling like a salmon going upriver.  Waited, waited, waited, finally got my wave.  A good solid bomb from the outside.  Lots of room to move around, cut back, glide, even a little nose time.  Reformed on the inside and barrelled over the coral heads.. chickened out and bailed just as I was tucking in backside.  Arghhh.  Another wave later came through and made my morning.  Love the long glide and time that PUblics gives on those long lefts.  Hard to track them down as it was inconsistent and many waves were not breaking at all.. just rumbling through.  The DT-2 was the call.  I can't ever sell that board.  Perfect for windy days.  Hope you all had a fun morning!

Sweet as Honey

Swell's still here, winds still here, rained all night.  Need I say more?  Have a sweetness day.  This honey's for Mr. Hughes.

Tad Smaller

The swell is a tad smaller, but still big everywhere.  Winds are viscious out there.  Headed out early to Pops with Mr. Lee and had a good time.  Lots of water moving, not enough waves, but the sets were good.  Caught one monster right that took me almost all the way to Canoes.  Exactly what Pops can deliver on a good day.  The winds were messing things up pretty badly, but I am sure everyone had a great surf today!  Aloha.

Rocking stocking

Two days of great surf!  Headed up to da country yesterday with Paul and picked up Mr. Lee for a session.  A bit of sideshore winds and chunky in front of his house so we drove up the line.  Looked at everything all the way to Uppers, and ended back at Chuns.  Good sessoin, lots of fun waves, not super clean.  Lots of fun.

Today headed out early with Paul and Mark and drove around until we ended up at 3's and 4's.  Good stuff.  A couple OH sets rolled through and beautiful rights at 3's with the fellows killing it.  4's was a bit closed out, but Paul managed the best barrel of his life in town (he grew up here, so that's a long time).  Surfed for four hours... sooo tired, can hardly move my arms, got pounded a couple of times on the inside as I was teasing the in between sets.  All in all... good to see some swell show up in town.

Swells coming!

A NNW swell is supposed to arrive later today with a large South coming in later this week from that monster storm south of Tahiti.  What's a working man to do?  How obvious is it if I keep moving appointments later this week :)

Mr. Hughes sent me in a little writing...

My boss needs to be fired. He lets me come in late, he lets me leave early, he doesn't stop me from spending hours doing things completely unrelated to work, and he gives me unlimited vacation days. He doesn't hold me to deadlines, he accepts lame excuses for why I don't get anything done, and he refuses to impose any sort of structure on the work day. He's pathetic. The problem is that I can't fire him because he's me. I'm a terrible boss. I came to the realization a few years ago that I'm consistently motivated more by trying to impress others than by anything inside of me, but didn't really believe that was completely true. It's completely true. To impress someone I respect and want to think highly of me, I will do anything, and I will do it quickly, and I will find the motivation somewhere. It'll just be there. It'll keep me up nights. It'll kick in, every time. Without that, it's like pulling teeth. I turn the Internet off and ten minutes later I turn it back on to check e-mail. I promise myself no food until I write another thousand words, and I eat anyway. I can't hold myself to anything. I need to get better at that, or get my editor to whip me with a belt or something. I'm a terrible boss. Two months and I still don't have a regular daily schedule. I make the excuse that writing is governed by the inspiration. I need to get over that crock of baloney, because I don't think it's really true. I'm just a bad boss. At least when I'm the employee. I suck at this part of being a writer, I really do.