Bagus Surf

Surf's coming!

Didn't get out this morning due to work and such, but I am saving up for later in the week and into this weekend.  I just picked this report up from Jutecast.com

Wednesday new southerly swell from two directions with surf building into the solid 3ft range.

Thursday south swell in the 2-3ft range with 4ft bombs at select spots.

Friday south swell dropping slightly.

Saturday southerly swell picking up again with surf in the 2-3ft range with 4ft sets.

Sunday solid 2-4ft surf at the choice locations.

5-DAY OUTLOOK

surf is on the way for southern shores after a month long hiatus that seemed much longer. the south pacific has been exceptionally active over the last week or so. the first in a series of at least three swells arrived over the weekend to the hords of new people that have decided that surfing is their thing. the next swell in the trilogy currently just finished production in the deep southwest pacific. a massive storm formed just southwest of new zealand and moved west to east from the tasman past new zealand into the south pacific southeast of new zealand. as it moved along its course it generated swell all the way from the tasman sea across to the south pacific. maximum seas were deveoped just south of new zealand with open ocean heights reaching 36ft. during its life in the tasman sea the storm sent a swell in the direction of hawaii. as the swell was moving through the tasman sea an eddie pinched off from the mother system and winds blew over the already developed seas adding significant energy to the swell. for hawaii this is good news as the surf will have to negotiate many islands. once the system passed new zealand it intensified and maximum strength was reached with surf generated and aimed primarily at mexico. because the seas reached such large swell heights and wave energy was able to reach extreme periods of 18sec or more, the loss of energy form angular dispersion will be minimized. this is good news for hawaii as these waves will make it to our shorelines with some punch left to them.

look for surf to start arriving locally on wednesday afternoon with surf building into the 2-3ft range with larger sets popping up form nowhere. as mentioned the swell will arrive from two directions as new zealand cut off the supply of surf for a short time. surf will arrive from 210deg as well as 200-205deg. surf arriving from the tasman sea episode will be difficult to guage as there are many islands blocking the way so i'll give moderate surf estimates from this source while the surf generated after passing new zealand should be significantly larger as there was little blockage and the waves were generally larger. by thursday the swell should fill in with surf in the 2-4ft range with 5ft bombs possible.

currently as of this writing there is a swell being generated just south of tahiti that may arrive simultaneously with the swell mentioned above. the source 800nm south-southeast of tahiti. surf may arrive out 165deg on thusday with sets in the 3ft range.

looking ahead there is another possible source of surf for hawaii south-southest of new zealand. this swell would likely arrive somewhere around next wednesday next week. northern shores looking dormant for the forecast period.

Duke Kahanamoku's Creed of Aloha

"In Hawaii, we greet friends, loved ones or strangers with Aloha, which means love.  Aloha is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawaii renowned as the world's center of understanding and fellowship. Try meeting or leaving people with Aloha. You'll be surprised by their reaction.  I believe it and it is my creed. Aloha to you."

The bouncing boobies

Nice session again this morning at Aina's with Mark.  Quick surf as I was off to old man's soccer.  Super calm and silky smooth rights, lots of fun for all!

The bouncing boobies boob dance

wave of the month

No winds yesterday and quiet all last night... that meant Aina's was going to be the call this morning.  Headed out just before 6 a.m. with whispers of a south swell showing up inconsistently.  Met Mark out in the lineup and voila... we had a blast.  A bunch of long walled up rights that were held up by a strong rip coming out the right channel.  One wave in particular walled up about head high as I hung five... thinking the was was going to crush me without my leash, I decided to keep hanging up on the nose and ended up taking a long long zippy wall all the way across.  Oh yeh.. that was fun.  Lots of good face to carve, turn, and zip down.  Even managed a nice little right zippy wave pseudo cover-up.  Smiling, laughing and finally my wave of the month.  Hope where ever you may be today you take a little aloha out there with you.

One of the coolest pics I have seen in a long while (National Geographic)

Nipples

It was a male dominated lineup this morning at DH.  Weird to not see the ladies out even with the almost nipple high sets rolling through.  Headed out early to see if the little pulse came through last night.  Got in the water around 6 as a big high tide was pushing in.  Took out the ITP and managed to get myself into a couple fun rights.  Just had to wait.  Good to feel a little push under the feet and get to the nose again.  My balance was all funky from not surfing for so long, but it was all good.  Slight sideshore winds, but nothing unmanageable.  Mansions was even working for a couple folks.  The tide came and killed it around 7:15.  Headed in soon after, but just a small lick of surf makes for a great day.  Heard is was a bit flat in town, probably going to be good on the low tide late afternoon.  Go out and get some!

Surf somewhere

So there's been surf in da country this week, but I have not had a chance to get up for some.  I am sure there are those lucky folks who were on it daily.  There's supposed to be a small bump in town, but when I headed to DH early this morning the tide was too high and barely anything was showing.  I even walked down to the beach before heading back up to my car to wait for a late afternoon session on the low tide.  Pretty lame that I walked down and didn't even get wet, what's up with this adult thing?  Work work work.  I gotta plan a trip to Indo next Aug to get away.  Aloha!

quicky to get wet

Jumped into DH for a quick paddle on the banana board.  Windy, choppy and crowded, but oh well, the water was warm and a hour of paddling in circles is good for the arms.  Sheesh, they are out of shape... winter is around the corner.

Tim Curren, Machado and Slates score south swell barrels in Southern California 

WorldCup Soccer!

World Cup is next year, but the preliminaries have started.  Supposed to be a small south swell today, but I didn't see anything this morning at 7 a.m. when I drove to DH.  I imagine something might have come in this afternoon... also a small North swell on Wed and another small Friday swell.  We'll wait to see.

easy on the eyes

Picture Day!

Ok.. not much to report on surf, except that winter is coming not soon enough.  Here are some pics to keep you occupied.