Bagus Surf

Or to Cali

Off to Norcal this week.  Hoping to get in for a quick, cold surf in Santa Cruz to catch the tail end of this south that came through this weekend.  Have a great week!

Queens oh yeh!

Not sure what happened this morning, but paddled through queens on my way to pops/paradise on my log and never left.  Clean chest high sets rolling through with hardly anyone out there.  Kept looking around to see about 6-8 LBs in the water.. we were all stunned and stoked to get wave after wave.  Nice reform on the inside with some almost coverup barrels.  I managed a nice "mummy" through a small barrel on the inside.  Giggling the whole time.  soo many waves, soo many toes over.  Oh yeh!

Good times and plenty waves for everyone.  Left at 11 exhausted.. more waves than the past month in one session.  Hope you all had a fantastic morning also.

Good clean fun

The winds were howling this morning when I went to Aina's to meet Mark and Paul, but the winds were too fierce to head out.  Drove along the town mile and ended up at Panic's where we tried to get away from the crowds.  Good fun, but the waves were a bit funky.  Bowls was firing this morning with 2-3' overhead sets rolling through.  The entire Ala Moana reef looked lit up and working everywhere.  I am sure everyone had a fun morning.  Will probably head out again late afternoon with the log for another session. 

Shaping Room

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The Wait

Been working like a dog everyday this week waiting for that swell to arrive Friday.  I hope it's not like the last swell when nothing seemed to appear while all the news blasted that we had a high surf advisory.  Not much to report except it is windy again here at my house and I imagine that DH is blown out.

Fun at Queens

Headed out to Queens yesterday with T lips from SF.  Had a fun session on the low tide and small swell still in the water.  Not too crowded for a Monday morning.  Fun to be had and again the ITP noserides just soooo sweet.  working this morning, but heard that clean conditions and small 2-3 footers are still out there.  More swell tapped for later this week.  Oh yeh!

surf oh yeh

Finally a swell has arrived.  Headed out to Courts/concessions with Brian on the Tak egg and had a blast riding clean fast waves.  Lots of people in the water, but plenty to go around.  Managed to drop, turn and burn in the closeout sets that came through.  Tried to dig myself deep into a couple mini barrels, but managed to get shacked instead.  Oh well, plenty of smiles all around.

silky smooth nose time

Hanging on the nose this morning in betweens after driving through DH and Waikiki and not seeing anything worth surfing.  Had fun on the ITP with small kine clean sets rolling through.  Long lulls at times, but for a quick morning session, nothing to complain about.  Looks like a small pulse is on the way later today and tomorrow, Fathers should enjoy a nice session.  Aloha.

could'a should'a

Drove out at 6 this morning looking for a quick surf before work responsibilities kicked in.  Low tide.  DH was looking sort of wobbly, so was lighthouse. Headed down to publics.. nadda.  What happened to the swell?  Heard that Bowl's/Ala Moana area is picking up the swell a bit more.  Nothing to complain about.. there's surf out there.  Just a bit deflated from the high surf predictions.  Decided to head home to start the day.. I'll throw the egg in the car in case I see surf later today.
Craig Fineman

Someday I gotta go check these breaks out

Piddly all over

Piddly all over,
originally uploaded by yobagus.

Surfed queens late afternoon. Swell still seems to be missing. Long waits with some waist high sets coming through. Good shape on the low tide. Pops and 3's seem to have a bit more size. Maybe tomorrow? Above is a pic of DH just after sunset.