Bagus Surf

winds go away!

These winds keep howling to mess up... well not much in town.  small pulses in the country, but this is that dreaded in between season when the north pacific shuts down and before the south oceans light up.  What are we to do?  Work.. work, get all that shit done so when the surf is good we can take off and get some.  Keep doing your pushups or whatever you do to stay in shape.  Lifing a slice o pizza is about all I got these days.  See you when the sun comes back!

No surf, sell sell sell

Have not been in the water for so long I feel like a dried shrimp.  Windy at my place this morning with not much of a swell in town.  Country could have some small kine with offshores, but us cube dwellers can only dream.  Not even sure who reads this surf journal, but if anyone does come here, I am selling my 6'9" Channel Islands Machado Single Fin.  It is sea green and in excellent shape.  One ding professional repaired by Jay Rush in town.  The board retails for $675 without tax.  I'm asking $575.  You can reach me at yobagus@gmail.com if interested.  The board is located in Honolulu.

Hey.. just found a pretty cool site called surfboardshack to buy/sell used boards here in Hawaii.  I just posted the single fin on it.  Check it out! www.surfboardshack.com

Long time surf

Been a long time since the last entry.  I went down to Sayulita with Free and caught the tail end of a large NW swell that swept through Hawaii and California.  We stayed at a cool place called the trailer park where Teeth took care of us.  Surfed the left right out front the first morning and had a great time on the 7'6" JC epoxy.  The left off the river mouth was super fast and going backside made it tough to track fast down the line.  We didn't realize that this swell was one of the best of the season for the local kids in town.  We ended up renting some longboards to surf the long rights in Sayulita.  It was impressive to see the local kids all ripping it up on their potatoe chips.. they really know how to milk the waves.  Ended up also finding a couple nice longboards to take advantage of the long rights on the nose.  We also rented a panga one day for a boat trip out to Punta Mita where we found the world class break.  It is a classic point break picking up the swell and wrapping it into the bay for 200+ yard rides.  Rode for four hours and completely spent ourselves.  I ended up riding Free's 8' Munoz and had a blast on the super clean long lines.

I got back and headed out to Kaho'olawe.. what an amazing experience.  Big alohas to the folks at PKO for taking us out there and sharing their knowledge.  I am finally back in town for a couple of weeks and looking forward to getting in the water.

Dunes

Not sure how surf was today on Oahu, but I did surf Northern California.  We had a nice 4-7 foot swell 15 sec period.  Checked all along OB, but the high tide was killing it.  Headed down south to Dunes and found a nice little sand bar all to ourselves (Free and I).  Took out the Miller 9'8" and 10" and had ourselves a fine time.  Water not as cold as I remember.... off to Puerto Vallarta tomorrow.  Aloha!

Sitting in D.C.

Sitting in D.C. shriveling in the cold and drying out like a cold sponge.  Wish I was surfing.. but what's new?  Hope you are having a great day!

quicky

Got out for a quicky surf at DH on the Munoz before heading to the airport this morning.  Always special to get in the water before leaving the islands for a long trip.  A couple fun things I found on the Internet this morning.  I'll be back in two weeks.
Slate and Anne Nicole Smith

Lohanfreestyle.com

http://media.ebaumsworld.com/bigasst.swf
 

Where's the surf?

I am off to D.C. for a week and away from surf, sun and family.  Have not been in the water for a week and about to shrival.  At least I am heading down to Puerto Vallarta afterwards for a short surf/bachelor party trip.  Hope you all find your surf breaks.  Maybe these views will help.

Surf everywhere except here

Surf all over the island except in my cube... arghh.  At least there's a good short surf flick online to watch.. check it out!

Mackin North Pacific

There's swell brewing all over the North Pacific. I hope the swell train stays alive when I go to Puerto Vallarta (Punta Mita/Sayulita) in two weeks. Anways, Mavs was going off yesterday with West Side Santa Cruz grom Anthony Tashnick winning the event. Hellish hold downs, but everyone was charging.

Mavericks Big Wave Contest on!

The Mavericks Big Wave Contest is on today in California.  You can check out  Mavericks live in your living room! on the the cam.  Looks beautiful and almost perfect for that monster wave to work.  Didn't get in the water this morning as work was calling.  I'm sure there's still a little of that south left somewhere.  Have a great day!