Bagus Surf

Fishy Phishy

Took the new "used" Miller fish out for a spin today at DH. Surprised to see a bit of juice in the water from the wrap. But with glassy conditions we had some stuff pumping through even on the super high tide.  The fish is definitely different.  5'10" and lots of foam with straight fins.  It was hard to get my balance once on the boards, but wow.. is it ever fast.  I was zipping down the wave face and beating the sections by a long way.  I am going to like this board.  Only managed a couple of rides with all the longboards in the water.  Did managed to get caught inside on a long set and flailed trying to duckdive my way back out. The fish is like a big cork.

Oh my.. you got to check out these clips: http://www.big-boys.com/articles/handywife.html
http://www.big-boys.com/articles/drivebyfarting.html

Bustin Lefts

Finally got myself into some mackin waves today in da country. Spent Friday night out at Crozier, but it was just too big Sat morning to make a go of it. Drove down to Pipe, but too late as the onshores set in. Dumping rain in town as everyone drove out for our Turkey day. Ate to oblivion again. Friday night saw Lady Smith Black Mombaso at leeward CC.. super great show. This morning went to soccer, but the game was cancelled, so drove back out to Crozier and paddled out to the boil on the big left with Jeff. Caught three nice meaty rides in, and manged a couple kooky takeoff attempts before I got the hang of it. Glad to be out on the 8'6" Miller as the deep waves were hard to paddle into. Great way to start a Sunday.

DH was glassy yesterday

Didn't get around to posting a super fun session out at DH yesterday.  The swell was lighting up reefs all over town.  Lighthouse, 3's, Bowls all looked fun most of the day, even on the high tide.  Met up with lots of friends out at DH on my Model T.  Had the big board out so didn't venture over to lighthouse.  It was super glassy and clean all morning.  Tough to get out of the water when conditions are that fun.  This morning was the opposite, at 6:45 a.m. it was blown out and chunky all over DH with only three guys in the water.  Country has been awesome.... hoping to get up there this weekend.

How To Build a Balance Board

Link: How To Build a Balance Board gives a step by step guide to building your own indo board. So when the surf is flat, you can practice your cross stepping.

Moonlight Glassing Company

Ok to be fair... here's a great article on the long lost art of glassing and why no pop out epoxy board will ever replace the soul of a board.

Link: AllAboutSurf.com - Moonlight Glassing Company.

No surfboards, no surfing." - Wayne Lynch

It often seems that real surf companies just don't get enough credit where credit is due. The layman side of our business, the surfboard manufacturers, is too often taken for granted. The less glamorous end of resin fumes, foam dust, and whining planners isn't as appealing to most as the rag trade is with the glamorous models and constant parade of high paid surf stars. The egos, corporate raiders, and non-surfing wannabees tend to crowd the high profile media end of surfing these days, and the mellower lifestyle companies go unnoticed.

Randy French Talks

No surf for me this morning... working for da man and he is calling me to get shit done.  It is glassy and small at DH and I am sure the old loggers are on it this morning along with a 100 or so of their closest friends.  No surf, but surf reading for you all.  Randy French interview about his Surftech boards.  Been seeing more and more of these in the lineup here in town and even picked up a used Takayama Surftech egg recently.

Link: AllAboutSurf.com - Randy French Talks.

The single biggest breakthrough in surfing innovation since the wetsuit, leash, and three-finned thruster, and the most controversial, would have to be the advanced state of molded surfboards and their increasing popularity worldwide. Finally, after one bad pop out after another, someone had figured it out and the results have been quantified, qualified, analyzed, scrutinized and well, simply brought to market with great success. It has taken years to make a board work that wasn't foam and fiberglass and built in the most traditional of ways, but now we have them.

Glassy and fun

Headed out to Mr. Lee's house this morning with Mark and Paul and had ourselves a super fun session with glassy conditions. Nothing super big, but fun ones coming through here and there. The Takayama egg was fun, but the 9' Walden Jeff was riding was the perfect board. All in all, a perfect way to spend a Sunday morning.

Nice and glassy

Nice glassy conditions this morning at DH. Nothing big coming through, but after a week of howling konas it was nice to see a smooth ocean and have a chance to folick for a while. Took out the Takayama egg for a spin and to get a bit of a workout. Fun all around. Winds are supposed to be back tomorrow for the rest of the week.

Oh yeh!

Double session today for the first time in months. It felt great to get out to enjoy some juice in the water. Spent the night out on Crozier with Mr. Lee and company for a poker evening. Didn't do well playing cards, but did wake up, grabbed my new Takayama epoxy egg and jumped in with Mike, Mark and Matt. We had Fuji's almost all to ourselves until a group from CA paddled out. The winds were shifty and clocking SW to SE with moments of glassiness. The swell was not huge, but enough to keep us all happy. When the CA group headed in, we had the place to ourselves until the winds turned onshore with a squall. The new egg is super fun, easy to catch waves, fast down the line and turns pretty well. Caught a couple great rights hooping and hollering the whole way. After three hours I had to come in as my arms were done. After a great lunch and rest, headed out with Jeff to the big left for an hour of big rolling waves. Took the 8'6" Miller out as it was a bit more difficult to get into the waves especially with the howling offshores. Hope you had a great Sat and get out to the north shore to check the monster waves coming in.

Surf along the north facing shores will continue to rise overnight, attaining heights of 30 to 40 feet on Sunday.

Surf on the west facing shores will rise overnight with heights of 15 to 25 feet expected Sunday.

Glassy and small

Da country is big and messy, although yesterday morning there were good rides to be had new Jeff's house.  I dropped into DH for a quick utility session this morning to get my arms back in shape.  Took out the model T and chased the random peaks of minor energy that rolled through.  It was super glassy and warm out.  Saw Fannie and Val out in the water and of course it was good times all around.  I've really been digging the new Miss Lucy 10" fin I threw on the Model T.

Pat Hughes sent me this picture this morning and asked me to post it.  I guess that's what all the rain in Oregon does to a man.