Bagus Surf

Is it cranking?

I sort of can feel there are waves today.. but hard to tell from the inside of a convention center in Bangkok.  Hope you all got plenty if some.

Aloha from Thailand

Sawadee Krup... from Bangkok Thailand.  I forgot to post my last session of the year.  Headed to the country Sat morning to meet up with Mr. Lee for a fun session in front of his house at at Fuji's.  It was super fun to get into some meaty waves.  The direction was not perfect for the break, but it was good enough to scrap into a couple nice ones.  We all got caught on a couple set waves that came through as the new swell seemed to be showing itself.  We managed to find good in betweeners for some good fun.  Rode the 8'6" Miller.  It was perfect to drop into the faster inside waves, but enough glide to make it through for a couple want - to - be coverups.  Hope you all have a great holiday season and ride a whole bunch of waves for me.  I don't get back into town until Jan 2nd.  Sheesh.. that's a long time from now.

2004 vans triple crown of surfing : north shore of oahu

Link: 2004 vans triple crown of surfing : north shore of oahu.

The vans triple crown of surfing officially is on today with a nice 4-6 north swell in town.  Andy Irons has already won the world title for the third time in a row, but will he capture his third triple crown title also?  Check out the website for daily updates.  My buddy Paxton is the webmaster, so drop him a line if you like what you see.

Surfs up in da country

Surf's come up in da country and should be big by tomorrow morning!  Got to work, but hopefully will head up on Sat morning for a final session of the year.

Cross winds, but a session

Went out for a quick session this morning as my days are numbered.  DH was nothing special.  Some weak pulses came through with a slight sideshore breeze kicking up around 8 ish.  Country is flat, but perfect offshore conditions today.  Hoping for a swell Sat so I can get in one more session before my seven week hiatus.  Did managed one set wave on the Model T that made for the day... late steep drop as the wave started curling, shot out like a bandit then caught the inside reform for a long noseride.  Ahhh, just one wave can make the day.

AllAboutSurf.com - An Internet Only Surf Magazine

Link: AllAboutSurf.com - An Internet Only Surf Magazine is a great read, but can be a serious timesink for sure!

Calm, glassy and smooth

So who got out there for a surf the past couple of days?  I managed to drag my snot nose out Monday morning for a nice long surf out at Diamond head.  It was superbly glassy with nice little pulses filling in here and there.  I rode my magical 9'6" Miller and had a super fun time hanging five down the line with lots of familiar faces all around.  It was great to get in the water after a week in Beijing to see all my peoples out there.  Looks like the swell is fading away in town, although the VOG is still hanging there.  Been too busy to get wet Tues or Wed, but Thurs is a holiday for the misses and I, so we may head up to the Northshore for a surf if that NW swell fills in as expected.  Hope you all got some nice groovy rides this week.

Back from Beijing, but too sick to surf.  Finally can see the sun today.  With a couple swells coming into town and country, looks like I better get better soon so I can get in the water.  I am off next Sat for six weeks and won't be back until Jan.  I am afraid I might dry up from being out of the water.

Remember to never pull out!

Beijing Post

Aloha all... heard it has been raining on Oahu and the water is brown and a bit nutty flavored. I'm in Beijing, China thinking of surf as I dread getting into my monkey suit tomorrow. Have you been in the water? Leave me some stories of your sessions so I can live vicariously.