Bagus Surf

Fun at the fish

Woke up early to meet my buddy Walker for a surf out at the fish spot. Was expecting the swell to have picked up last night, but alas, nice sets, but nothing super meaty. Crowded early as expected, with a slight sideshore breeze. A bit chilly.. winter is definitely here. Had to pull out my vest this morning. The waves were a bit dilierious.. lots of water swirling around with inconsistent juice pumping. Point panic looked fun. Good times all around with a couple nice drops in here and there on the Munoz. I heard that Publics was firing this morning but choke people. Might get one more chance to get wet tomorrow morning before I head off to Beijing for a week. This journal/report is going to be basically intermittent while I am overseas Nov/Dec. But I will try to post some fun surfing thoughts from the road. Aloha and mahalo for reading this blog.

Two things:

1) Please remember to vote on Nov 2nd!
2) Check out the sale at Powderedge. They are going out of business and everything in the store is 70% off until Sunday when they shut their doors permanently. Say hi to my friend Lora when you are there.

Winter South Swell

Late season south showed up today. Snuck out of the office mid day to look for surf. Kewalos was looking groovy and I should have jumped in. I drove down to Ala Moana and then took at look at Bowls/Kaisers. I then drove back and paddled out at Courts. Expectations were high, but the swirling water and winds didn't help the inconsistent waves. Much better when I first paddled out, but it started to fall apart soon after. This direct S swell should be looking good at Publics. Early morning tomorrow to get out.

Open Post

Ok.. I have been out of the water for a while and will probably not be posting much in Nov and Dec as I am going to be overseas. This is an open post... feel free to post comments and start a dialogue on the site. Always fun to see who is reading my rants.

Hampig and me

Headed out to DH this morning early for a quick session in the absolutely glassy, calm conditions. Small pulse in town with everyone smiling. Took the 8'6" Miller out for a spin and managed to get into some really fun smooth waves calling for a top to bottom carves. Such a good time, but I had to come in for work. Headed back out this afternoon for a surf with Hampig, but the conditions were falling apart. Onshore winds from a local weather system and chopping conditions. but we had a great time, although Hampig managed to get worked pretty well. Water is still coming out her nose.

Discover's Day

Found a pleasant surprise today.. it was a holiday! So I headed out with Mark and Paul to find some surf around 9 a.m. DH was blown out, so we saundered into town. Kaisers and Bowls didn't look too appealing as the south swell was on its way down. We headed out to Concessions and found ourselves sitting between sets for a long time. But when the sets rolled through it was fun waves all around. The Miller 8'6" was the perfect board to get into the waves today. We had lunch at the concession stand. What a beautiful day to be alive! Thought out to all indigenous people around the world.

Concessions

I have been out of the water for what feels like weeks... work(s) has been crazy with multiple projects going on at the same time and folks coming into town for meetings. I did finally get out this afternoon for a much needed paddle out. I took the munoz out to concessions and had a great time on a couple fun rides. The sets were far apart, but the munoz gave me just enough paddling power to get into some fun curling waves. I only have three weeks left to surf before I head overseas for two months. I hope I will have enough left in me for da country when I get back in Jan.

Fish for Sale

6'0" Fish with a pair of glassed on Mark Richards fins. 6.0 X 20 X 2 7/8. Super fast down the line with that classic fish skate feel. Pulled in nose for dropping steeper wave and a wicked bottom turn. Brand new condition. White with gloss finish and extra layer of deck glass. $295. Email me if you are interested. I'm looking for a 7'2" board for the northshore this winter. Something to get me into waves from Kammie's to Gas Chambers.

Ocean Beach SF

I surfed Ocean Beach in San Francisco on Friday morning. Flew in at 5 a.m. and was picked up at the airport. Nice, clean, glassy day at OB so we hopped in at Kelly's Cove which is the far north end of the beach. Nice little south groundswell mixed in with a NW windswell. It was weird to put a wetsuit back on and dive into the frigid waters. This is truly a beachbreak as the chest high A-frames were thumping about 30 yards from shore on an incoming tide. I rode my buddy's channel islands single fin, the same board I have here on Oahu. It was the perfect board to drop in and make some fast down the line rides. Good times all around with my buddies pat and mike. Does make me appreciate the amazing waves and conditions we get here.