Bagus Surf

Phish again

Out in the same place again but conditions were a bit sicker than yesterday. Carrissa Moore was out in the water and just ripping it! Smaller waves, but a couple meaty waves came through anyways. The fish is fun, but I keep thrashing my feet on the fins. Finally had a couple fun waves where I could turn and really feel the board turn. One right fast wave was zippy and I could finally feel the speed of the board. I am getting a better handle on the board, even though steeper waves still dropped me on my head.

Phishy

Headed out to the fishy break in town on my new 6' fish. Quick session with a couple fun zippy rights and lefts. The swell is a bit small still, but glassy and not crowded. Looks like a small swell is going to arrive tomorrow with fine conditions to be had all around. Report from DH this morning was small, glassy and fun.

chuns

Bolted to da country at 5 a.m. for a quick session with Mr. Lee. We drove from his house and found waves at Chuns to be the only thing really working. Sunny Garcia and Rob Farrow were out there ripping things up. Small, but fun waves. Always amazing to see how even small waves on the northshore has soo much more power than town waves.

Lots of S to go around

Well.. the entire island is surfing right now. I think with the 100 year swell in da country we have surf on all four sides of the island... probably a pretty rare event indeed. Have been having fun at 3's most of the week as the ladies been surfing paradise at the same time. Hampig and Steph have been having a blast surfing together. I am sure where ever you are you are getting some. Seems smaller today when I checked DH at 6:30 and now looking out over bowls it seems a tad smaller than the past two days, but nice conditions with sets still rolling through. Get out for a surf!

yum yum yum

Country is getting the 100 year swell today. Reports of good surf all along the northshore. I imagine most anyone that could get off works is up there, but... for us folks in town needing to get into the office, we were treated to a nice little punchy swell at 3's this morning. Not too many folks in the water and Hampig/Steph were out also. I paddled to 3's for a whole bunch of fun racy waves on my DT-2. It was just beautiful, even with the high tide. Trying to noseride on the top lip of a fast curling wave is something I need to work on. The wave of the day was an overhead wave this guy who was ripping snagged and arched a bottom turn and styly top turn off the curling lip.. just awesome. Hampig and Steph had a great time over at Paradise.. just the ladies.

Glassy and fun

Finally got out this morning as I knew it would be glassy at DH. The only longboard I had with me was Hampig's new 8'6" Yater Spoon, so off I went with the little classic. It was super fun out this morning with nice little punchy waves pushing through and everyone commenting on the beautiful day we were having. The spoon was a blast to ride, a bit small and light for me, but getting up to the front 1/3 of the board was liking shirfting gears, the board would just shoot forward through the section for a nice long noseride. I can easily imagining liking the spoon in a 9'6" which would be just about right for my size. Lots of great aloha in the water just like it should be.

Jimmy Thing

windy and fun

Broke down.. had to stop working for a couple of hours and get in a surf. Headed out to DH with Walker and Ed. It was windy and the windsurfers were out everywhere. It ended up being super fun, a little windswell was showing and the Munoz was eating it up. We felt like we were on the windsurfing super highway sitting in the median as fast flying boards and sails zoomed all around. It was odd to have to look both ways as the windsurfers were catching the waves waaaay outside even before they broke and could go either way they wanted. It was a blast even with the sideshore winds. Good to get wet, then back to spackling to get ready for the big painting day tomorrow.

Hump Day

It's another hump day and I missed my morning surf. Too many things going on at work today and I feel like I am running up an ice covered hill barefoot. I heard the S swell is still making a small push and with the incoming tide it should be nice in town. Trades are still already early this a.m. so town is probably the call. I was gonna head to three's to see how things looked. Hope you got some!

Big Hole and Property Rights

Surfing Property Rights is described in a blog posting. Interesting read. Went out to DH this morning on my cherry CISF to find sideshore winds already whipping up a frenzy at 7 a.m. Nothing much happening except mushing walls and bodies flying. Then it happened.. a guy on a wave bailed in front of my and his board rammed into my beloved green machine and put a fist size hole on the deck squishing much foam. It was one of those situations where I should have duckdived, but I thought he would have creamed my head, so I tried to roll out of the wave and he ended up landing on my as I dove down deeper. Looks like the nose of his board speared mine. So, off to Jay's shop for another costly repair... arghh.

The rounds

Made the rounds at DH this morning with Hampig. Ran into Val, Jim and Fannie in the water. Hampig was out on her new Yater Spoon and loving it! She even managed to catch a nice outside wave. I was puddling around on the Model T and ended up doing some cross stepping exercises on the way inside. A bit windier with sideshores today, but just a hint of that S swell in the water with inconsistent sets. Seemed to be looking a bit better as we left the water around 8:30.

Bonga in Haleiwa

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