Bagus Surf

Ouch

Not much out there today. Drove by DH at 6:30 and it was already pretty windy and the waves looked gutless. Headed out to Bowls to see what was going on. It was a super low tide this morning... it is a Blue Moon tonight.. the second full moon in a calendar month. Not much happening.. did see my friend Pauline in the water. I did manage to drop a wave onto dry reef, scratch up my left foot, then step on a sea urchin with my right foot. Ouch.. I am sitting at home with my feet propped up as they are both hurting. I soaked my sea urchin foot in vinegar. Anything else I should do for sea urchin spikes in the foot?

How's the surf?

No surf again for me today. New house, late night runs to Home Depot in Pearl City, friends visiting, crazy work projects, so so conditions, etc... sort of whining here, but I hope with the bump coming in today I will get out for a late afternoon surf or definitely tomorrow morning super early a.m. It was raining stink at my house llast night. I am thinking nasty runoffs in the town spots. Did you get out today? Drop me a report. aloha

Tom Carroll

CJ Kanuha

Fishy Lines

6 - 4 - 5 - 2 - 5 That is how many people were in the lineup at any one time this morning at the fishy spot. We all turned around to each other at one point and started laughing because this normally super crowded town spot is usually packed with da locals. Fun glassy rights and lefts (when they didn't close out) came through consistently in small sets. Rode the 8' Munoz, but wished I had my new 6' fish to try out. It was fun, light breeze and good vibes. Another one of those gem days out in the water when everyone else is somewhere else. Hope you get on it... the incoming tide should give the pulse a small push.

Quickie

ARghh... moving hell. I have been moving all weekend and it was hot! I managed to get in a quick session this morning at DH. Windy, mushy, messy. But good to get a cool dip in the ocean in between packing, moving boxes, and cleaning. I think cleaning an apartment when you leave is the worst part about moving. Anyways it is done for now, but now comes moving in. A whole bunch of renovations to make our new place home, but I imagine by Sept 1st it will all be worth it. It was fun packing all my boards into my car at one time. A new record! Three on the roof, five inside and two already at my mom's house. Sheesh, I hope the wife didn't notice. Swell supposed to bump tomorrow.. I hope i have the energy for a dawnie. Aloha.

Friday surf?

I am sitting in my cubicle down in Chinatown contemplating if I should head out for an afternoon surf. It is hot outside, so a dip in the ocean is probably what I need. But the crowds.. sheesh is everyone thinking the same thing? I have my 6' fish with me that Eric Howard shaped for me, but I have not really had a chance to ride it. I keep grabbing one of my longer boards as I don't want to sit inside and battle for waves. Anyways.. did you get out today? Any report on conditions? I hope we get another little bump soon as it is getting pretty small out there.

In between nose and tail

Checked out DH this morning around 6:30 a.m. but there was a sideshore breeze already on the water and it looked sort of jumbled out there. Headed down to Bowls and paddled the DT-2 out to in betweens. It was a fun morning taking fast little lefts and getting plenty of nose time before the wave normally closed out. On a couple that wrapped in from Rockpiles, managed to get nice long rides across the reef. The set waves normally closed out, but the waves in between provided plenty of niceness. Good people in the water and a great time.

Hey.. who are you? Is there anyone actually reading this surf blog? If you are reading this, would you mind leaving a comment (click comments below) and say hi! Even leave your own little surf story for the rest of us to read. Aloha!

China Uemura Longboard Classic

China Uemura's longboard classic is this weekend at Kuhio beach. A great time and the money raised will go to the American Diabetes Association. Definitely worth checking out. No surf for me today as I sort of hurt my back yesterday and my body needs a day off before the next little bump comes in tomorrow. A good day to get lots of work done. I heard conditions are super clean at Bowls as the winds look super calm this morning. Hope you all got some!

Hampig back out

Hampig was back out this morning for a quick session at DH around 9 ish. Winds were blowing sidshore, but not too bad. Took out her new Yater spoon 8'6" and caught a couple fun rights on the inside. I sat on the Model T and played around while she got her arms back. I hope the neck holds.... should be good all week as the trades are mellowing out and another bump comes in Wed night. Get out and enjoy!

Why Queens

Why would anyone surf Queens? It is a super packed wave with a mix of local surfers and kooky tourists who have wandered over from Canoes. There are usually many more people than waves and each set is a party wiith trouble waiting to happen. Tempers can get high and wave hogging can get twisted and gruesome. So why would any sane person choose to surf Queens. One word: Noseriding. Yep.. the wave at Queens when it is working allows for some serious nose time. Today was one of those magical days at Queens. When I paddled out around 7 a.m. this morning there were about 5 local guys and three tourists on rental boards. We were giddy that most of the folks were surfed out from the weekend. For the next hour or so, we each took turns catching fun chest high rights that peeled steep and fast inside making for some intensively long hang fives and almost tens. Not many days like this at Queens, even during full moon surfing sessions. Definitely a morning to remember.

Spent

Headed out to Aina's this morning around 6:30 with Walker and Nicole. Met Paul and Mark in the water. The winds were calm and there was still remnants of the SW swell in town. Nothing huge, but definitely fun. The tide was going out, but it definitely is going to get better as the tide comes back in. We surfed for about 3.5 hours and my arms are done for. Even with the 8'6" Miller it was tough to catch some waves, but the wave count was very high.... total fun.. and a new record. Not a single person dropped in on me. Ahhh, the dream comes true.