Bagus Surf

Eggs and spam

Headed out to Aina Haina around 5:45 a.m. to find nada... at least from my 10 minutes watching small pulses coming through, but definitely nothing that seemed to show the size of this S swell. Ended up leaving and heading back to DH. Took out the egg to mansions after hooking up with Lora in the parking lot. Caught two nice set waves a right and a left, then nada.. the waves just stopped breaking. Hung out for a while and then moved back to the regular peak. The egg is a blast to ride as I am getting more used to it.. stable, fast and ohhh the glide. Nice big arching turns and even a small noseride when I forget and cross step. All in all another beautiful day in paradise.

Egg and SHampig

Hampig got up at 6 with me and we headed out to DH. Super glassy and clean conditions with inconsistent swell coming in. Hampig on the Munoz and I on the Miller egg. Shampig caught a couple nice waves next to the channel before her neck gave out. I stayed out and caught a couple nice lefts down the reef. The egg just loves to go straight and fast. A couple high lines along the wave face then barreling down for a bottom turn and speed! Good to be out. All the local crew was around, but super crowded even at the early dawn hours. Might head to 3333 this afternoon on the CI singlefin.

Board issues

Got a call from Fanny this a.m. that DH was glassy with small peelers rolling in. Headed out with Big Red for some water time. True to form, it was oily with nice little bumps coming in. With the low tide at 8 a.m. we starting getting some peaky waves coming in. I had problems this morning with holding on to my board... bunk ankle from soccer made it hard to push off on the board along with a big bruise on my hand from Fanny's board. Ended up with a couple long swims in, but that's good for the fitness. Small south swell should be filling in this afternoon with a nice peak Tue/Wed. Gonna get out the CI and Munoz for sure.

Shorty is good

I finally have made myself take out the 8' Munoz consistently. With the new scooter and surf racks, it makes sense as I can't carry a larger board to work and surf. Wed afternoon I headed out after work and cruised the surf spots from Ala Moana to bowls to Fort Durusy all the way to DH where I finally jumped in for a nice afternoon paddle. Caught a couple fun waves. The Munoz is super easy to paddle and catches waves very much like a longboard, excpet with the nose rocker and shorter length, I can now make those late drops I soo love. Yesterday morning I went back out to DH and for some reason was a wave magnet. I just happed to find the right spot for the waves to find me. I finally managed to get my first mini coverup on a backside rogue wave with a face that fluttered all the way across the break. Even got a hoot from the small dude on the big epoxy board. I met Shula out in the water.. she just turned 60 and is still out in her bikini charging it.

This morning was a get wet session. I got to DH around 7 ish and it was choppy, bumping, textured, just a plain mess. Saw Lora in the water and didn't really manage too many clean waves... one here and there. But always good to get wet no matter what.

surfresearch

surfresearch has a great series of pictures showing the evolution of the surfboard. You can even click on the images to get indepth info on specs.

A SURFBOARD ANATOMY >> ABSTRACT

A SURFBOARD ANATOMY >> ABSTRACT is a great article pointing out the specific of how a surfboard is shaped and what means what...

Surfed out

Never thought I would say this.. but my arms are noodles and I am surfed out for today... well, we are making mother's day dinner, so no sunset session anyways. Where to start... NO WINDS.. glassy conditions when I woke up yesterday morning around 5 a.m. I had a feeling it was going to be special! Headed out to Aina Haina to catch the south swell that was showing itself Friday afternoon. I arrived at Aina Haina around 5:40 a.m. and quickly grabbed the DT-2 running to the water. When I rounded the trail an orange glow was bursting over the horizon. I jumped in the water as the sun started to rise as a perfect reflection hit the still water. It was sooo glassy... unbelievable! the sets were rolling in as I paddled out to the lineup. The only other person in the water was Bob from Kailua. We traded waves lefts/rights too many to count. Overhead, glassy and peeling all along the reef. It was eerie to watch the oily calm sea surface out to the horizon, then to suddenly see waves pitch up on the reef as we took off wave after wave. It was amazing. we had the spot to ourselves for 45 mins before Toru and gang came out. Then the masses began to show up. Luckily around 7:15 a strong current carried us all towards Portlock and the lineup was spread out. Saw a bunch of familier faces... Bart and his wife Gina, Mike and Russ, and others. It was an amazing morning, just what I imagined surfing in Indo might be. In the afternoon, I headed out to Queens with John Cheevers.. it was stiff onshores, but good to still catch some quirky waves.

Mothers day today I headed out DH and surfed Mansions... again glassy conditions with overhead sets rolling in. Long long rights with lots of nose time.... again just an amazing session on the DT-2 with fun fast waves that rolled in like meandering giants. Rach, Katie and Katie's friend chris headed out around 9:30. I am spent... 6 hours yesterday and another 4 hours today.. my arms are barking. But it was paradise and what surfing is all about. Two plate lunches in two days... that's livin.

short and sweet

Headed out for a lunch time surf at Queens this afternoon on the 9'2" Tak. Nice little waist high waves with racy lines. A bunch of pros were out doing a photo shoot on their 10 foot logs... needless to say I was shut out of many waves, but did manage a couple nice little squirters. It was fun to watch the boys do their thing.. should of brought out Big Red. The Windswell wrap was doing wonders for Queens through 3's.

SPROUT - a new surf movie via Thomas Campbell

SPROUT - a new surf movie via Thomas Campbell should be on tour this fall and out on DVD later in 2004. I hope someday he puts seedling out on DVD.

surfresearch

surfresearch is a cool site showing the evolution of the surfboard fin