Bagus Surf

FK is a surfing machine

Surfed with FK out at DH. Swell dropped substantially since yesterday, but the light offshores continue. Glassy and good looking waves coming through as we sat on the inside launching FK into monster, barreling, sections. She and the Martinson were one!

Another Perfect Day

Yesterday was a top 2 day.. today is definitely top 3. The swell is still in town, but the conditions at DH were a bit different. Moderate offshore winds with an incoming tide. I took out the 7'6" single fin egg. It was the perfect board. Big, meaty swell lines coming in with a nasty offshore holding up wave faces until they would fold over like a taco. The waves looked like northshore mackers as they were held up by the offshore before crashing... kaboom! The egg was great... I could paddle in a tiny bit early (not that early) and it had the speed to shoot down the line ahead of the crashing lip. I was even able to backdoor a peak or two. Speed, speed, speed... doesn't turn much, but wow... it was a little rocket ship!

Da Best ever?

Today was a day to remember, I guess that's why I keep this surf blog. The first big south swell of the year definitely came in with a bang. It was supposed to peak Sat night, but as usual it was late. I went out Sat morning to Publics and had a couple beautiful rides, but those were just forerunners. Saw Toru out before his shop opened. Publics is definitely a wave that needs a longboard/glide to get into, but a shorter board to take advantage when it jacks up. A fun left with good speed and glassy faces. Rode the 8'6" Miller. Good times.. until... went back out Sat late afternoon while the ladies had cocktails. Made the mistake of going to Pops/Queens/Canoes. Such bad vibes in the water.. young punks yelling at me when every wave was a party wave, just such bad vibes I left. To top it off as I paddled in almost to shore a woman bailed on the her board and wacked me in the right knee. I decided to take Sunday off to collect my thoughts, allow folks to get their fill and to reset the surf meter. Did manage to blow out my left Achilles tendon playing soccer yesterday.

With all that aside, today was brilliant. Long rights would roll through when the swell wrapped in from the West. Lots of friendly folks in the water, but not too many as folks were definitely surfed out from the weekend. It was not crowded and I had some of the best rides ever. Late takeoffs, punchy bottom turns, up the face, glide up and down, and zip out on the shoulder. Almost a couple of barrels/coverups. It was simply magic. Glassy conditions and perfect swell size. I rode the 8'6" miller again and with the 2+1 fin setup I was able to rip down the line. Ahhhh. I love surfing!

Here it comes

That monster south swell is coming in! Headed out to Publics this morning after watching sickly DH do its thing. Publics had some nice sets rolling through. The 8'6" Miller was a great board once I could get into a wave. Definitley needed a heavy longboard to get into the wave, then a fast shorter board once it pitched up. Toru was out just killing it on his Christensen. Can't wait for the swell to build.

Queens galore

Headed out for another 2 hour surf at Queens on Big Red. Dino Miranda and his boys were out there ripping it up! Swell is slowly picking up as beautiful rights began to appear even on the incoming tide. Tired arms, big smile and crizpy skin. Getting ready for the weekend!

The North man

Jeff came in from da country to surf this morning, too bad with only had light winds, sun, and clear water. Missing a key ingrediant for the morning... waves. Last night watching Concessions it looked like the swell had picked up and we were going to get a solid morning of waves. But the sets were far apart and almost gutless except for a couple nice ones here and there. That's ok.. still had a great morning, a couple fun waves and good vibes. Had a yummy breakfast at the Ward farmer's market.. laulau, poi, poke, oh yeh! Maybe an afternoon session?

shoulda, coulda

Arrived at DH at 5:30 a.m. and couldn't decide to go in or not. It was looking a bit sickly and the wind was already starting to blow. After about 20 mins of fretting, I decided to get in the water as I didn't want to drive across town to Bowls and mess with the morning crowds. Also the ol back is still sore so took the Martinson out for a spin. Managed to get myself into one meaty head high wave right across the channel. Fun, fast, but bumpy from the washing machine effect in the water. All in all another great day to get wet. Big swell building for this weekend... got to get in shape for it.

Absolute Beauty

Today was one of those days that living in Hawaii is truly the most magical place on earth. The sun was out, the winds calm and the ocean clear and clean. Headed out to DH around 6 with the Martinson and floated around trying to find waves... always seem to paddle away just as a peak appeared. My back is still bothering me and that was evident in the kooky takeoffs and trouble turning and noseriding.. oh well, just getting to experience old age I guess. Started hanging inside which was fun. Carol and Pete showed up for a while. Too many meetings today.. work work work

Bethany

Headed out to Queens for a paddle this morning on Big Red. First time back in the water since my reef run in on Sunday. No swell, windy, and flat. Saw Bethany Hamilton out in the water with her dad. It was amazing to see her paddle and get up surfing with one arm. She was on a small longboard. Other than that sat and watch the water... chatted with the guy on the blue epoxy from DH. A bunch of tourists came out and it was like swatting flies, so I headed in. May check out Bowls later.. but then maybe wait for the swell next week.

Duh.. ouch

Sat morning went out to Queens for a paddle on Big Red. Not much coming through, but fun enough indeed. Let Jimmy borrow the board for a couple waves and he was in love with the Cadillac. Today headed out to Kaiser with Mark and paddled across Rockpiles to Bowls. The left at Bowls was run.. clean, fast and burly. I did manage to smack the reef on my first wave at Kaiser's to get a nasty reef rash on the back and also an easter egg in the head.