Bagus Surf

Mr. Hughes

Two firsts today. Took Pat Hughes out for his first surf down at Canoes. It was a mess... wild windswell mixed in with the background first SW of the year. Did get PTH up for three stand up rides. What a thrill. He's a natural. Can hardly move his arms and cuts all over his feet, but the man can surf. Also had a chance to take out the new 6'10" Bernhardt single fin. No rides, but fun to paddle. The low rocker and volume makes it a pretty easy board to get going. Crunched the fin a couple of times on the shallow rocks. Can't wait to get it out for a full spin.

Calm before the storm

Headed out this morning to DH for a quick session on the DT-2 before the storm rolls in. Right now it is pouring rain with lightning everywhere. The first small SW swell of the summer season is arriving this weekend, but the storm and kona winds will rip it to shreds for sure. We are supposed to have a bit more SW energy next tues and thurs. While daydreaming of surf, here are a couple pics to help pass the time.
Greg Knoll

Jimmy Gamboa

Old School

Dreamin

Free free

Headed out to FH today to meet Paxton for a surf. Took out the Munoz and managed to snap the nose on the very first drop in on Paxton when I was unable to back off a wave and he rode over the nose. Ouch, The conditions were funky at best... strong current was pushing us deeper into the pit while the winds and water movement made it feel like a washing machine. Had a fun time on a couple of bombs and managed to get caught way inside on a back to back set. Good to get into some nice juice again. Kept on my frontside when possible. All in all a great day. Met up with Jay Richardson afterwards to drop off the munoz to get fixed. Super nice guy and also met his son John.

Big Red

Took Big Red out this morning for a paddleboard like session at Canoe's and Queens. the tide was far too high for the NW wrap to have much more effect than random little bumps coming through once in a while. It was good to get out and take the new board for a spin. Too many folks in the water by 8:30, but I had a couple waves to myself at 6:30 when I first jumped in. Woke up at 4 a.m. still battling the jet lag. I hopefully get a chance to head to the country for a session or two.

Back finally

After four weeks away from the water from being on the road to Nassau and Kuala Lumpur, I finally got back in for a short session at Bowls last night and a morning drive out to Poki Bay with Lora. Nothing spectacular, but very good to get wet again. The arms are sore, the back is burnt and nipples are raw, but you gotta start somewhere. I am excited to be getting two new boards, a 6'9" Channel Islands Single FIN and also a custom shape from Kyle Bernhardt (North shore). He and I sat down and came up with a pretty funky 6'10" single fin. I wasn't expecting the Channel Islands boards, so now I have two new boards. Life could be worse. Although with the one in one out board policy, I will have to sell the one I like least. They are intended to be travelling boards.

Oh, conditions were ok.. the huge NW swell didn't really wrap well. Makaha was pretty messed up. Didn't check out at free hawaii, but it was probably big! Here's a picture of my new 10' Miller that just arrived from Cali.. she's a beauty.