Bagus Surf

Two DH yah

Well nothing huge, gnarly or epic on the southshore, but we are getting a small West wrap out at DH from the perfect conditions hitting country. Have not had time to head to country, but two morning sessions at DH have been fun with glassy conditions. Today was a bit cleaner as we didn't have the trade wind swell messing things up. I am off to Nassau for a week, so it was nice to get wet before leaving town for a while. Surfing is good for the soul.

In the dark session

Headed out to DH this morning at 6:30 when it was still dark thinking I might beat everyone in the water. To my surprise, four guys were already in the lineup. No worries, plenty of peaks for everyone. I had the first 30 mins of my day surfing all alone on a little peak peeling right into the channel. Tried the new grenough stage 9 fin today. It made the model T turn on a dime and feel really loose and light. Didn't hold to well in the whitewater and mush. Also a couple of steep drops, I felt like the tail was going to spin out, but that might have just been me. It was a great morning to be out. Surfed until about 8 then headed in for my soccer game.. that's another story. I did hear that Pipe was all time today and country was ripping!

DH fun

I just love surfing... any board almost any condition. Headed out to DH early this a.m. for a session on the model T. got in just before sunrise with a small crowd already in attendence. Had a nice time riding chest high peelers one after another. Got to noseride and work on carving turns. It was a great time and just soo good to be alive and living in paradise. Left around 8:30 when the crowds started filing in.

Munoz Rocks

Took the munoz out to Bowls this afternoon for an invigorating session. Remnents of the windswell mixed in with the out of season south swell made for some OH sets rolling through. It was a bit tricky to catch the non closeout waves, and I mean like a taco. I managed to get a couple good drops to closeout tumble, but did get a killer right all to myself. Watch a set roll through as the boys all grab one, especially the longboarders. When the lineup cleared I saw a dark shape approach. I knew it was a beauty b/c there were no cross swells pushing it off the reef. Spun and took a couple strong paddles to get into it just behind the peak. Dropped a bottom turn to see a vertical wall loom ahead. I had to gain some speed, so pumped up and down the wave a couple of times to get to the high glide speed section. Made a couple long loopy top to bottom turns avoiding shorties on their way back out from the first couple of waves. It was magic.. the feeling of speed and smooth long turns top to bottom... that's what it is all about. The glide and feel of surfing. I hope you all got some.

Monster Mush

Headed out to DH this morning as the winds died down last night. Big mushy windswell rolling through with peaks randomly everywhere. Hard to get in the right place. The ride of the day was a monster rolling wave coming in from the outside. Hard paddle put me in for a late drop just behind the peak. Pumped the DT-2 to get high on the wave, then dropped for a bottom turn. The wave kept jacking up and getting vertical. Felt like surfing on a wall. Stayed high in the speed zone then dropped about 3-4 feet down the face for a massive acceleration, before turning back up the face. Felt like I could have launche off the lip. Fun wave.... :)

check out this rincon video

Windy and Huge

Didn't get out, but it is big, windy and gnarly all over the island today. Winds are strong out of the S SW and the swell is about to peak tonight at 35'-40' Should make for an interesting day tomorrow. Found two interesting links to watch while at the office:

http://forum.surfermag.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=056602

http://www.411surfer.com/surfers/mike.morrissey/MikeTrick.mov

piddly but good

Small and glassy at DH this morning. Model T had a fun time gliding through the lineup. Huge swells in da country and leeward coast. Not much wrap in town yet.

Glassy Perfection

What a beautiful day on Oahu. Perfect blue skies with not a wisp of wind and perfect temps. Bailed out of work a little early to get home to pick up the Model T and head out to DH for a session. Small windswell coming through on the full moon low tide around 4 pm. Had a blast just catching small nothings in crystal clear waters and bright sunshine. Everyone was having a great time. Saw the biggest green sunset ever tonight.

First surf 2004

Headed out with Ed for the first surf of the year. After almost two weeks of rain, with the past four days being torrential, we woke to find partly cloudy skies and sun shining. Headed out with Ed around 11:30 to leftover windswell. Nothing special, but fun to get the Martinson up and running again. Jeff called to say country was epic today with glassy conditions and waves firing everywhere in front of his house.