Bagus Surf

Dirty brown

Not really a surf this morning. Paddled in at Aina Haina to meet Mark, but he was on his way in. Water was dirty and brown. checked out DH, but it wasn't doing much. Happy New Year!!

Aina Haina

Had a nice two days of surf at San-O with da boys (free, T, Leary, tyler). Nothing big, but glassy knee high peelers to play on with the logs. Weird to wear a 4/3 wetsuit again. Had a nice time back at old man's. Flew in today with word that a small southeast swell was hitting town. Headed out to Aina Haina with Mark for a quick afternoon session. Typical... should have been here this morning was mentioned many times. Oh well, nice to get back in the water again. It's raining shits outside....

DH glassy and fun

Headed out to DH with Hampig this morning for a fun session in glassy conditions. A small SW swell arrived last night. Took the munoz out for a spin. Fun little board. I am going to have to make myself keep riding the smaller boards. Did get dropped in on and have one of my side fins snap on the rail of a longboarder. Now I have to track another one down. Get out, the winds are mellow.

quicki

Jumped in for a quick surf at Queens after two days at the TNC retreat. Nice to get wet. Small dribblers coming in that the Model T loved to grab. Got really crowded around 4:00 so got out before something bad happened. Da boys were out catching everything anyways. Saw a pro longboarder chick.. can't remember her name but she has a large tattoo down her side and stars under her arm. I remember seeing a picture of her in a magazine sometime back. She could ride that board... grrr

Little surf, big board

Headed out to Queens this morning for a fun session on the Model T. Even on the HT, there were waves to be had. Love that wave for noserides.. got kind of crowded, so stayed inside for a while. Did a double session with a sunset surf. Not as good, but one or two peelers to play on.

Surfing is fun!

Many days, offline

Well.. had a bunch of killer sessions over the past two weeks, but unable to get anything online. Hard to remember them all, but here's what left of the foggy memory. Day 1: Pat and Alex are in town and we hit a beautiful glassy day at DH, waist to chest high and have a ball playing, noseriding and overall good times. Day 2: Chuns. Big N/E swell was in for the north shore. We got ourselves into some 2-3' OH surf. great stuff and the DT-2 was in heaven. Day 3: Another chuns run as Lanis was monstrous and crowded. Good times again with da boys. Day 4: Back at DH for a morning session. Nothing special, but good to get wet. Second session that day at Bowls.. da boys got sea urchin in their feet as it was LT and small. Had a nice beer watching the sunset. A couple other not to memorable sessions at DH with a nice trip to da country this morning with Mark to hit up Kammies and Monster Mush. Fun stuff.. got stuffed on a couple steep takeoffs. Riding hampig's blue 8'6" Miller. i really need to get a smaller board. 7'6", 19" across, 2 5/8 thick.. something smaller.