Bagus Surf

Big East, fun DH

Huge NE swell... mellow and fun in town. Had a nice session at DH this morning. Calm, waist high, and fun all around. Got in at 7 and out by 8:45 when the crowds started showing up.

Long day, short dip

Had a long working day renovating the warehouse and doing a physical inventory... arghhh, but did manage to get in at Bowls, actually in betweens for a quick paddle on the DT-2. Nothing special, but a couple fun lefts came through on the sets. Winds were sideshore and stiff.

short and sweet

Jumped in at Bowls yesterday afternoon for a quick session on the Munoz. Fun to get back in the water after a week off due to injuries from the northshore last week. Not much swell on the books, and I'm off to Samoa this week. I hope something comes in for Thanksgiving week as da boys are coming in for a visit.

Da Country

I finally made it up to the north shore with mfox. It was a blast! We headed up around 7 a.m. with 2-4 ft swells (according to surf-news). We headed to Sunset after checking out a couple other spots. We dove in and paddled out to Kammieland to get our feet wet and for me to get used to the new conditions. I brought my smallest board.. the 9'0" Walden.. and it proved to be too much board as the day progressed. Caught a couple nice lefts at Kammieland before paddling over to Mushboiler... right next to rocky point. Had a bunch of nice rides including a long walled up right that I ran up the nose for a little hang time before back peddling as the wave pitched which stalled out the board before speeding down the line again... a couple of pumps then I realized the lip was pitching ahead of me.. yahooo my first small cover up... what a rush! Had another going left also. Bummer was I gashed my arm and hand with my fin so hard on one wipeout that I broke the side fin off. I have a big ol bump on my arm and many lacerations.. oh well. We then paddled down to Gas chambers where I caught two monsters before getting washed into shore. I need to get a small faster board with less volume.. better call Tommy.

Secret Spot

Made my first foray to the country today... a declining NW swell, but great glassy/slight offshore conditions. Met up with Jeff and headed out to a spot in front of his house. Made me promise to not speak of it to anyone. It was awesome. Just four of us out catching nice chest high rights over and over again... no break between waves. Just a constant wave machine. Better than the flatness in town. One of my first waves kooked out and stepped of the nose of my board trying to run up while dropping a steep pitch. Immediately informed I had just made a townie turn. Great fun... can't wait to get more time on the North Shore this winter. I even made it back to work by 10:45.

Back from Thailand!

Back from my two week in Thailand. Looks like winter is here and country is ripping. Went out to DH this morning to get wet. The water seems a bit colder and there was a bit of a nip in the water. Took out the Takayama which is back again from repairs with Jay. I think the board is jinxed.. keeps getting hit by other boards.. of course it could just be me. Nothing special, but a little energy in the water from the windswell that we are having. Hopefully will head out to leeward coast of country this weekend if we get some swell.