Bagus Surf

Country is ripping

Country is ripping it up with great NNW swell coming in clean and mean with 2+ OH sets. . . at least that what I hear. I just got back from D.C. yesterday afternoon and headed right into the water with BC, Steph and Hampig for a quick sunset session at DH. Nothing special in waves, but it was great to get back in the water the clean off the road grime. I only slept about 6 hours in 3 days and ended up being awake for 24 hours by the time my head hit the pillow last night. Off to Thailand for two weeks tomorrow morning, so no water or surf time for a while. Hope I can stay in shape to get back and hit it.

Queens.. yum

Had a fun morning taking Bob out to Queens to catch some of this south swell. It was a bit tough for him to catch waves as the local boys ruled the outside leaving the piddly insides for him. We did catch a nice wave together... not a bad way to start the morning. The swell seems to have cleaned up since yesterday leaving fun, glassy waves for all. Caught a couple nice rights all the way inside for serious nose time.

Nice south

Nice little late season south swell in the water this weekend. Missed most of it with the gash on my head. I did paddle out with hampig, Bob and Steph today at Paradise to watch them get some waves. All doing well even after the mishap with the new Miller 8'6" yesterday. hampig dropped it at the showers and broke one of the side fin boxes (caved it in) and put some pretty deep scratch all along the bottom of the board. It was only two weeks old.. ouch. The swell is nice.. actually caught one set wave at pops all the way across... I wasn't supposed to get my cut wet.. but did... hope it's going to be ok. Might take them out for a sunset surf at Queens later.

Bleep Tourists

Yeh... thanks to a nimrod from Japan today, I have a hole in my beloved Takayama and another on my face to boot. Went out for a long paddle today to get some exercise... started at publics and paddled across to ala moana then back. Decided to take a wave or two at Queens then go in. There wasn't much happening, but I was on the monster log, so I was casually paddling into a wave or two. Hopped on an almost nothing ankle slapper when part of our economy (japanese tourist) flails and paddles onto the same wave I am casually hanging out on. I was going so slowly I couldn't really maneuver quickly enough and he bangs my board.. I drop to turtle my board out of his way when he freaks out and jumps off the back of his board accelerating it back into my board and tombstone his board so the fin plunks back onto my forehead. He was riding a deep purple Hansen single fin pintail.. obviously he should have been on a foam board. I am bleeding profusely so paddle in. He follows as I share my disgruntlement.. but of course he doesn't speak a word of english. I feel he was truly sorry.. but that didn't help the big gangly ding on my board or the big old cut that runs from my eye to my forehead. I was lucky it missed my eye by about 1/4 inch. Scary small days in Waikiki..... It also means I am going to miss the few remaining days of watertime I have before taking off the rest of the month overseas.
Here's a pic of my old break in SF

Utility sesh

Had a nice utility session today at bowls. Took out the 9'6" Miller thinking I would paddle to 3s and back for some exercise. Ended up skirting rockpiles for a nice little session. Not alot of folks out due to crazy parking.. there must have been some sort of event at the Hyatt as many non-surf related folks were cruising the lot for spots. Swell.. what swell.. it was mainly earth's energy flopping on the reef. Time to begin the trips to the northshore.... small swell coming in Sunday to keep us townies occupied.
Portugal

Trades are back

Headed out to DH this morning with Lora and Hampig to play around with small surf. Didn't have the time to head country to leeward. Finally got the Takayama Model T back from Jay at Rush. It is in great shape and I wanted to get the board back in the water. Got to DH about 7:30 a.m. and it was already blown out. Nice to have the trades back to keep things cool, but it wreaked havoc on the small kine energy we have. I have to try to get out west before this swell leaves us.

Uncrowded small waves or Crowded big waves?

The common question one asks when heading out for a session. With the first macke NW swell hitting country, most folks are calling in sick today and heading to their favorite NS reef. That leaves town pretty uncrowded for those that have responsibilities of work and such. I headed out to DH yesterday to find glassy, clean conditions with chest to chin high waves rolling through. I had my 7'6" egg and was making a mess of things as I tried to learn to how ride that short thing. It was fun and I did manage to get on a couple good waves. Twice is the charm? Headed out this morning with my trusty Martinson 9'3" step deck to hunt waves. Got in around 6:45 a.m. with just a ripple of wind on the water surface. Nice A-frame peaks by mansions breaking with perfect inside reforms through the channel. Ahhhh so nice to have my longboard back. After about 7:30 the winds completely stopped and it went dead calm. You either rode the inside section with waves every couple of minutes or waited outside for a nice head high set every 5-8 minutes. You couldn't go wrong. And the crowds.. not bad at all.. of course I jumped out at 9 when the surf schools showed up. Get out and get some!