Bagus Surf

DH with Aipa and gang

Headed out to DH this morning with Lora and Hampig. Glassy, glassy, glassy right until we paddled out when a slight sideshore trade started.. nothing major. Ran into Ben Aipa parked next to us as he commented on the 9'6" Miller. He liked the shape and quality of the glassing. Got a couple comments in the lineup also. This is my magic board for sure. Fun, fun, fun. 2-3 wave sets pushing through with a bit of spunk. Hampig took her new 8'6" out and had a blast... I think the pintail is perfect for her. Should be good the rest of the day. Northshore is starting to come alive and should provide good surf all week.

333

Threes was great this a.m. Almost no one out and the remnants of the swell still around. Glassy until about 8:30 when the trades starting lightly coming back. Good call not to jump in at Bowls/Rockpiles. Made myself take out the little 8'6" and had a blast zipping down the line to make the sections. Ahh... isn't surfing great! especially when you live in paradise.

Ding Repair 101

Posted by Blakestah on e's surf blog:
1) Cut away damaged glass, clean area.
2) Mix laminating resin + hardener plus Q-cell or whatever filler you like until it has toothpaste like consistency. Fill the hole flush. Let dry, and smooth it while still soft so you have a flush finish.
3) Cut fiberglass cloth to cover hole
4) Sand 1 inch border rough (50 grit) around hole, and sand filler layer rough also
5) Apply laminating resin and hardener with glass to cover the hole
6) Using waxpaper, cover the glass and press it flush with the rest of the board, let dry
7) sand smooth and ride

You can also apply a layer of sanding resin after laminating resin to get it smooth, but the wax paper will mix some wax in with the resin near the surface, which makes it sandable. Don't use sandable resin with glass, it is not strong enough. Laminating resin won't sand without wax, but resin plus wax (or sanding resin) will not be strong enough.

Almost all dings need a filler layer and glass. Almost all dings need to be 50 grit rough-sanded before repairs begin, to help the resin to adhere. Failure to adequately sand is a reason many ding repairs subsequently fail.

HTH, this, and much much more at http://jfmill.home.comcast.net/dings/dingdex.html

Zippy

Locked my keys in the car this morning... what a bonehead. Sat looking at courts waiting for AAA to show up. Turns out that wasn't a bad thing as it never came together. Once I got back in the car, I headed to Bowls where I took out the new 8'6". Wow.. what a fast board. i was able to drop in a zip down the line before it closed out. I wanted to play around with the board, so managed to catch almost every closeout b/c I was assured no one else was going to be on it. Had a fun hour session before heading off to yoga. The swell is in, but the Kona winds are messing things up a bit offshore.

New 8'6" pintail

Took the new 8'6" Miller pintail out today with the 2+1 setup. DH was junky with onshores and sickly seas. It was nice to get a quick paddle in at lunch. Didn't really get a chance to ride the new board much.. but did find that the extra volume in the nose doesn't allow for much duck diving. I wanted the board to still noseride well and one that Hampig could use. I'll have to wait for a bit more juice to see how the board handles a good drop. Water is very warm today!

I am selling my 9'8" Tyler Zeke. This board is a beauty... I just have too many boards and need to trim. It was either the Tyler or my Model T... but that has sentimental value. I am asking $950 for the Tyler as this board was personally shaped, colored and glassed by Tyler himself. It's an awesome board. A couple dings professionally repaired. Comes with the original Tyler fin.

Tyler is fun

Took the Tyler back out to DH this morning. Still pretty glassy and nice, with small bumps coming in here and there. The Tyler is super old school. Fast down the line and paddling, but man it's a beast to turn. Just trying to kick out of a wave was an adventure. But super stable and easy to get to the nose. I'm probably going to clean up the board the drop it off to surf garage this week to sell. Just too many boards and I am getting my model T back this weekend. I hope it looks ok after I thrashed it the beginning of the summer on that Big Wednesday.

Cool article about the origins of surf wax

Sus sent me in an email about the cinema paradise film festival on Oahu that features some great surf movies. Of note is Tues Sept 23rd which will feature The Far Shore, A biography of Titus Kinimaka, and In Search of Grace. See Sus's review of In Search of Grace I highly recommend The Far Shore... it's a great surf travel flick that will make you want to sell it all and hit the road.

sunset at DH

Long weekend in SF... great wedding, but not enough sleep. Got back in town this afternoon and headed down to DH around 5:00pm. Crowded, but pretty clean conditions, light winds and a small pulse pushing through. Took out the Tyler "zeke" It's a paddling machine. Old school style down the line speed. A monster to turn and a couple nose dives trying to pull a floater here and there. Super easy to get into waves and wow... fast down the line. I'll have to experiment more with this board.

Paddle before I fly

I'm off to SF again this weekend for a wedding. It seems like the never ending string of weddings, but what can you do about it. At least the booze will be free. Going drinking with Free and T... hope I keep my clothes on :) Paddled out at bowls for a quick dip, nothing special but good enough to last for the weekend. Love the 9'6" Miller... and I'll soon have a small cousin for it. Picking up my new 8'6" pintail Miller for the winter swell. More on it when I get back.

Nowhere Photography

Sean from Nowhere Photography just sent me a link to his great pics from the Boost Pro at Lower Trestles a couple of weeks ago.

Unfavorable Days Gallery

From the Unfavorable Days Gallery:
Rob Machado

Malia Jones

Joel Tudor