Bagus Surf

Pops alot

Got Hampig up at 6:30 and headed out to Pops this morning. Pretty crowded as everyone was trying to catch what was left of the south swell. Tide was a bit too high, but the sets came through every 25 mins. Hampig sat inside after a while to catch some of the smaller stuff. I guess the afternoon session was pretty spectacular as the tide went out. We'll have to see what the hurricane swell provides tomorrow.

P's

Headed out at 6:30 this morning to meet Mark and de boys to try a new spot. There was a lot of easterly windswell coming from the hurricane. Fun session especially trying a new spot. Channel heading out with a peak providing closeout rights and short lefts. Was told it definitely breaks nicer when there's a bit more meat in the swell. Short sucking inside break wasn't anything special. We did have one really nice set come through that showed the spot's potential

Session #1

Yes, that means I am planning session #2 sometime this afternoon. Small pulse started to arrive this a.m. I checked Diamond Head around 6:25, but it was a bit wobbly with slight texture from the East and a very westerly direction to the peaks. Headed down to Bowls and hopped in a bit before 7. Fun time with super clean conditions. Nothing big EXCEPT a set of 5 head highs that came through. Caught the first (smallest) one and tucked into a clean left on the 9'6" Miller. I think with the incoming tide today, we are in for a good afternoon. Session #2 Headed out with Mark and Eric to Kaiser's. We ended up paddling to Pops and then back. Nice sets rolling through every 30 mins or so, but the high tide was killing it. Tired arms for sure

The Shape Makers

Surf Film Review:
Went to see The Shape Makers last night at the Wallace Theaters. Not one to recommend. I had great anticipation of seeing this movie as shaping boards is something I am very interested in. I was hoping to see techniques of how shapers use their tools, different philosophies on rocker, concave, rails, etc. The movie was a bore with home movie like qualities (poor sound, bad edits, shots that seem to be space fillers). The shapers interviewed all had the same thing to say... been doing it a long time, don't make much money, love of surfing, blah blah blah. No one except Brewer even talked about their design philosophies much past "v-tail works", concave is nice, etc. I'd wait for someone else to buy the video so you can fast forward past slow sections. The Honolulu Advertiser has a review of the movie.

Sunset Fun

Paxton called saying there was a small bump last night. Headed down to Courts fighting traffic all the way. It was interesting to watch all the cars try to weave on back streets to only clog up the main arteries even worse. Small pulses were pushing onto the reef even at high tide. Only four of us out there and just Pax and I on longboards.. cool. Had a couple fun peaky drops, most excitement on a board in over a month. Watched a great sunset as the peaks disappeared as the tide started going back out. All in all a fun session.
Got a call this morning that Diamond Head was not worth the trip.

Diamond in the rough

Headed out to diamond head 6:30 a.m. to see what was blowing through. Slight breeze was already lapping the waters as I ran down with the 9'6" miller to get wet. Didn't want to tackle the drive into town with the bus strike and all happening. Small, weak, but enough to push you towards the beach. Small bump Wed and Fri (so they say).

Out again

Went to SF for a wedding this weekend in Petaluma. Good times all around and a chance to drive some of the Norcal coast to visit my old surfing spots. Weather in the Bay area was perfect, warm no breeze. The ocean was a zoo of people as there was a small south pulse in the water. Got back yesterday and slept for 10 hours last night to recover. First day of school, so dropped Hampig off to teach the kids something good. I headed down to check out courts.. nada. Jumped in at Bowls to paddle around on the Miller 9'6" Just a fun day to laze around for a while. Nothing really happening. Interesting story about whitey in San-O.
Puerto

Baaah

Flat as far as the eye can see. Was supposed to meet up with mfox this morning, but conditions at bowls was just too small to make the effort worthwhile. Sent him off to work instead to wait for the small bump coming in Thurs night. I paddled out for about 45 mins to loosen up my shoulders and get wet. Nothing worthwhile to record.

Roughies

Went for a surf yesterday afternoon just to get wet and paddle around on the Martinson. Dipped in at Courts. Tide was too high and the swell was non-exisitent in the gale force sideshore winds. It was a challenge to even find a wave that would hold up. Definitely some of the funkiest and sickly waves in a long time.

Surf Trip Packing List

Here's a short list of things to pack... got suggestions? Post them in the comments below.
Personal gear:
1 A large book bag or daypack
1 rash guard
2 30+ water-resistant sunscreen
1 Zinc oxide sun protection
1 Bug repellant
1 Aloe Vera gel
1 Kit Personal hygiene items, i.e toothbrush/ paste, Campsuds or other biodegradable soap.
1 Sunglasses
1 Wide brimmed hat
2 1L water bottles (Nalgene recommended)
1 Lightweight hiking boots for day hikes, 2 pair of socks
1 River sandals (Chaco or Teva recommended)
1 Beach towel or Sarong
1 lightweight long sleeve shirt and pants for mosquito protection
1 Headlamp
Females:
2 swimsuits, one being a sports swimsuit for surfing and beach athletics
1 boardshorts
1 Sports bra for beach athletics
3 short sleeve t-shits
1 pair normal shorts
Males:
2 boardshorts
3 short sleeve t-shirts
1 pair normal shorts
Optional:
Crazy creek chair
Travel hammock
1 reading book or other appropriate reading material
Something to think about while packing: